Folded Fabric Box and Bow

May 6, 2020 CraftyStaci

Before everything went pear-shaped, I had ordered a product I wanted to try out. It’s made for stiffening fabric, and I had read good things about it.

The spray is called Terial Magic. While it didn’t stiffen the fabric to the level I expected, I think it’s perfect for some applications.

If you want to feed fabric through your home printer, this is the stuff. I have spent a lot of time and energy with the whole iron-fabric-to-freezer-paper thing, and when it works, it’s great. When it doesn’t, it’s a nightmare. This made the fabric alone feed through just like paper.

It doesn’t do anything to prevent fading in the wash, but that’s not always an issue, and can be remedied in other ways. I’ll definitely be using this next time I make a quilt label!

For my first try, I wanted to make a little gift box. My daughter and I learned to make these on a cruise ship, of all places, back in about 2008, but those were paper. My goal was to see if I could make one out of fabric.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here. This post was not sponsored.

To make this folded fabric box and bow you’ll need:

Terial Magic
cotton fabric (white if you’d like to put it through the printer, otherwise a cute design)
needle and thread

If you’d like to have the same print on your box and bow that I used, you can find that PDF here.

To prepare your fabric, cut two pieces about 9 x 12”. Soak each piece by spraying with Terial Magic.I turned the sprayer to “stream” rather than “spray”, so it was a little too concentrated and I think I used a lot more than I needed to. It spreads a lot more evenly on the spray setting.

Make sure there are no dry spots on the fabric. Let it air dry until the fabric is just damp. The bottle says about 15 minutes, but mine took at least half an hour.

Press the fabric until it’s dry. It doesn’t mention whether or not to use steam, so I turned it off. The spray left no residue on my iron or ironing board.

Trim the two fabric pieces to 8 1/2 x 11”.

If you’re printing, feed it through as you would cardstock. Mine printed beautifully, there was absolutely no jamming, and the colors look great. This is the printed fabric on the bottom, and paper on the top.

This gorgeous watercolor floral design is from Katerina Osa on Creative Market.

Cut the floral square with the black background to 8 1/2 x 8 1/2” and the white background to 8 x 8”. The print won’t go all the way to the edge unless you used borderless printing, but those white strips will only show up inside the box.

Cut the 1/2” strips:

one 2 1/2”
three 6 1/2”
three 7”
three 7 1/2”

To make the box bottom, lay the 8 1/2” square wrong side up. Fold it in half.

Gathering Beauty has an excellent tutorial showing how to make these from paper, so if you find my instructions lacking, check hers out. I wouldn’t blame you.

Unfold, then fold it in half the other direction. Unfold again. Fold in half diagonally.

Unfold, then fold diagonally in the other direction. Unfold again. Your fold lines should look like this so far:

Fold all four corners in to the center. Leave it folded.

Fold one side in to the center.

Fold the opposite side into the center as well.

Unfold, then repeat those two folds in the opposite direction. Unfold.

Unfold two corners opposite each other and fold up the sides.

Pull up one of the corners, allowing the sides to collapse in on the folds.

Fold end up allowing sides to collapse in

Fold that corner down over the side.

Fold corner down over the side into bottom

Press the corner into the bottom.

Repeat with the remaining corner on the other side to finish the box top.

Repeat all the steps on the 8” square to make the bottom.

To make the bow, gather the 1/2” strips. Holding one 7 1/2” strip wrong side up, bring one end to the center so that both the middle and end are still wrong side up. Do the same with the other end, going in the opposite direction, so it creates an 8 shape. Overlap the two ends 1/4 - 1/2” in the center, making sure the loops are even. Clip to hold in place.

Once you do this a couple of times it gets a lot easier. Repeat with all the remaining strips except the 2 1/2”. I used a different color clip for each size so that I wouldn’t get them mixed up.

For the 2 1/2” strip, just make a circular loop, overlapping the ends and clipping.

Thread the needle with a long length of thread. Knot the ends together. Push the needle down through the overlapped section on the smallest loop.

Push the needle down through the center of one of the 6 1/2” loops, wrong side up, and push it up next to the first loop.

Add the remaining 6 1/2” loops in the same manner.

Add the 7” loops.

Finish with the 7 1/2” loops. Knot the thread under the bow, but don’t cut it off yet.

Adjust the loops as needed. You can either clip the thread and glue or tape the bow to the box, or stitch it on through the box lid, like I did.

Folding and creating the box and bow worked really well with the Terial Magic, but because the fabric isn’t very stiff, it’s a little tough to put the lid on and take it off. Luckily, it won’t have to be done often, and it’s cute enough to be worth the trouble!

Crafty Staci Projects at SewCanShe

June 19, 2019 CraftyStaci

Did you know I’ve been writing for SewCanShe for a few months now? Yep! And since I’m busily working to get ready to our road trip tomorrow, I thought this was a great time to fill you in on what I’ve been up to over there!

Cute and Modern Pocket Apron

This one is a great beginner pattern. I taught this pattern as a class at My Quilting Loft, and we had so much fun making them!

Patch Pocket Apron by Crafty Staci for SewCanShe

Easy Peasy Sewing Machine Cover

This handy cover can lie flat to become a mat to set the machine on. There are also pockets across the front to hold your tools and notions. I’m using one of these in my sewing room right now, made from Wonder Woman fabric!

Sewing Machine Cover by Crafty Staci For SewCanShe

Sewing Machine Cover and Mat by Crafty Staci For SewCanShe

Out the Door Organizer

I made this pocket-filled organizer to hang near your door. It will store everything you need as you’re running out the door, so you don’t have to search for things like your car keys and sunglasses.

A little bird told me my most recent project might turn up on SewCanShe today, so you can take a peek and see if it’s there. If not, keep an eye out, because it turned out really cute!

Simple Skirt by Crafty Staci for Sew Can She

We’ve already talked about what I’m making in July, when I get back from my trip. I can’t wait to share that one with you!

Reusable Shopping Bags with Storage Pouch

June 5, 2019 CraftyStaci

Do they still allow stores to use plastic shopping bags where you live? That’s currently a yes for me, but that’s about to change. I thought I’d get ahead of it a bit by making myself some reusable shopping bags.

Reusable Shopping Bag Tutorial from Crafty Staci

This post is sponsored by Fabrications, Inc. All opinions are my own. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

I’ve never used coated fabric before, but the feel of this red check I received from Fabrications, Inc. is so much nicer than I expected. It isn’t stiff, but has some body to it, so it was perfect for this style of bag. It’s made by coating cotton with acrylic and an eco-friendly “wipe clean” finish, and is entirely food safe. It was easy to sew, and even though I could have pressed it from the back side, I didn’t even turn my iron on for this project.

Buffalo Check Red coated fabric on Crafty Staci

I originally intended to make only the shopping bags, but after they were finished I realized I had the perfect amount of fabric left for a zippered bag I could carry them in. Half the battle for me if remembering to bring the bags with me, and that extra pouch is so cute, how could I forget?

To make these you’ll need:

1 yard coated fabric (36 x 60”)
1 10” zipper

For two shopping bags, cut:

four - 18 x 17” - bag A

two - 8 1/2 x 10 1/2” - outer pocket B

four - 3 1/2 x 30” - handles C

Pieces for shopping bags on Crafty Staci

For one zippered storage pouch, cut:

one - 19 x 12” - pouch D

one - 2 1/2 x 14” - handles E

two - 1 x 2 1/2” - zipper ends F

Pieces for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Since I squeezed almost every inch out of this yard of fabric, here’s my cutting layout so you know how it all fits.

Set aside the zipper and pieces (D-F) for the pouch.

For the assembly instructions, I’m going to show you how to make one of the bags. The second goes together exactly the same way. 😉 Unless otherwise noted, all seams are 1/4”.

Lay out the two A bag pieces with the edges even and the 18” side facing you. Measure 5” from the right corner on both the bottom and side edges.

Clipping corner off shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Cut diagonally through both layers between those two points. Repeat on the left corner. Set those pieces aside.

Clipping off second corner of shopping bag on Crafty Staci

If you’d prefer straight corners, simply don’t clip them off and proceed with the remaining instructions.

Fold the B outer pocket piece width wise, with right sides together. Clip together, don’t pin. In fact, you’ll want to use clips throughout this project, as pins will leave behind holes. Stitch both short sides.

Stitching sides of pocket for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Turn right side out. Use a seam roller, fingernail, or other non-heated method to flatten the seams. Topstitch 1” from the folded edge.

Topstitch pocket for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Lay out one bag piece A. Center the pocket at the bottom edge with the edges even and the pocket fold toward the top. If you find you need more than clips across the bottom to hold it in place for stitching, use a small piece of blue painter’s tape at the top.

Pocket clipped to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Stitch close to the right and left side of the pocket.

Pocket stitched to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Lay the remaining bag A right side down over the piece with the pocket. Stitch 1/4” from both sides and across the bottom, including the angled corners.

Both shopping bag layers clipped together on Crafty Staci

Zigzag stitch over the edge of the seam allowance. This fabric doesn’t unravel, but the extra stitching adds some strength to the seams to support the weight this bag will hold.

Zigzag edge on shopping bag from Crafty Staci

Fold the upper edge of the bag to the inside by 2 1/2”. Flatten the fold.

Top edge of shopping bag folded to inside on Crafty Staci

Stitch 1/4” from the raw edge on the inside.

Upper edge of shopping bag sewn on Crafty Staci

Turn the bag right side out.

Shopping bag turned right side out on Crafty Staci

Fold the short ends of the bag handle under 1/4”. Fold the entire handle lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch 1/4” from the long edge.

Stitching handles for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Turn the handle right side out. Topstitch close to both long edges.

Repeat to make the second handle.

Topstitched shopping bag handles on Crafty Staci

Find the center of the upper edge of the bag. Clip one end of the handle 4” from the center with the short end even with the topstitching on the bag.

Handle clipped to top of shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Clip the other end 4” from the center on the other side. Make sure the handle has no twists in it.

Stitch down the sides of the strap where it lays on the bag, near the top edge of the bag, and near the end of the strap. Stitch an X in the middle of the rectangle. Repeat on the other side of the bag with the second handle.

Handle stitched to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Grab the supplies for the storing pouch. Fold the short ends of the zipper ends F under 1/4”. Wrap over the bottom of the zipper with the folds near the stop.

Clipping on zipper ends for shopping bag carrying pouch on Crafty Staci

Stitch across through the zipper.

End sewn to zipper bottom on Crafty Staci

Repeat on the pull end.

Clip the zipper to one short side of the pouch D, with right sides together. The zipper end may extend past the edge - that doesn’t matter. Stitch 1/4” from the edge.

Zipper sewn to one pouch side on Crafty Staci

Turn the zipper right side up. Flatten the seam. Topstitch near the seam.

Repeat with the remaining zipper side on the opposite side of the pouch. Be careful not to catch the fabric underneath when topstitching the second side of the zipper.

Second side of zipper sewn in place on Crafty Staci

Fold the handle lengthwise, with right sides together. Stitch down the long edge. Turn right side out. Topstitch down both long sides.

Completed handle for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Turn the pouch with wrong sides out. Unzip the zipper at least 2/3 of the way. Make sure the zipper is at the top and match up the sides of the pouch. Fold the zipper ends to match up the edges.

Fold the handle in half and slide it inside the pouch. Match the ends of the handle to the edges of the pouch, about 1” from the top.

Stitch both sides of the pouch. Stitch again over the handle in the seam allowance to give it extra strength.

Sides sewn for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Turn the pouch right side out.

Fold both bags into thirds one direction, then thirds in the other, and they should fit nicely side-up-side inside the pouch.

Shopping Bags inside Storage Pouch on Crafty Staci

My original plan was to have the bag fold into the outer pocket for storage, and it is possible, but too finicky for me to do all the time.

Shopping bag folded into its own pocket on Crafty Staci

However, that little pocket would be a great place to stick coupons, receipts, or small items.

Reusable Shopping Bag with Outside Pocket on Crafty Staci

It’s been a while since I’ve made a coffee cozy, and this fabric is perfect for it. Spill a little coffee? Just wipe it off!

Thanks to Fabrications, Inc., I’m all set for my next shopping trip!

Reusable Shopping Bags in Storage Pouch with Coffee Cozy on Crafty Staci

Mini Barn Star Quilt

March 13, 2019 CraftyStaci

Back in November, I told you about the wool applique class I took. I bought a black metal stand to hang it on, where it stayed through the holiday season. The problem is, it’s currently mid March, and it’s still sitting there.

I signed up for a block of the month that’s a similar design, so my thought was that I would finish each block and display it on the stand until the next was completed. Yeah, I’m pretty behind on those, so that’s not happening. This is January, February, and March, without a single stitch of embroidery on any of them.

I don’t want to put away the stand, because it’s cute, but I definitely needed something not so wintery to put on it. Luckily, I was hit with inspiration. I love barn quilts, and I even have a red barn I could put one on, but I’ve never followed through and made one. Now that we’ll be moving in a couple of years, I think it’s time to let go of the idea.

However, a mini barn quilt would be perfect for my stand! I decided to go with solid colors to represent what would be paint on an actual barn quilt, and a wood grain print for the background. I love how it turned out!

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this you’ll need:

Cotton fabric in light blue, dark blue, light green, dark green, light yellow, dark yellow, light red, and dark red
Cotton fabric in a wood grain print
thin batting
fabric for binding
ribbon or cord for hanging
quilt square stand (optional)

This block is made entirely of half square triangles. They will eventually end up 2 1/2” square, but we’re going to start with something a little larger and trim it later. My thanks to Jacquelynne Steves for the cheat sheet to determine the size I needed. Cut the following number of 3 1/8” squares from each fabric:

4 light blue

4 dark blue

4 light green

4 dark green

2 light yellow

2 dark yellow

2 light red

2 dark red

12 wood grain

Also cut a 12 1/2” square for the back and 12 1/2” from the batting.

Set aside 4 of the wood grain squares for the corners. We’re going to assemble the outer squares that include the wood grain pieces first. Lay out one wood grain square with the grain turned in the direction you’d like it to end up in your block. For me, that was with the boards running vertically.

Lay a light blue piece on top, with right sides together. Using a fabric marking pen, draw a diagonal line from the upper left to lower right corner. Pin the squares together.

Stitch 1/4” from the line on both sides. You can draw these lines on too, if you’d like.

Cut along the line between the stitching.

Open up into a square and press.

This made two pieces - the top row, second square from the left and bottom row, second square from the right.

Lay out another wood grain square, with a light blue one face down on top, but this time draw the line from the upper right to lower left corner. Stitch as before and cut along the line.

This set is opposite the first.

These will be the first square on the left in the fifth row, and the first square on the right in the second row.

Repeat this process to assemble the dark blue, light green, and dark green squares that include wood grain. I’d recommend laying the pieces out as you go, like a puzzle, so you make sure all of the squares are looking like they should.

Once that’s finished, you can start matching up colors. These are easier, because there’s no wood grain so no direction you have to keep track of. This is how the remaining squares pair up:

light blue - dark blue (2)

light red - dark green (1)

dark red - light green (1)

light green - dark yellow (1)

dark yellow - light red (1)

dark red - light yellow (1)

light yellow - dark green (1)

Mark, pin, and stitch these in the same way we made the ones that included wood.

Looks a little wonky, huh? We still need to trim them to size. It takes a little longer, but I was really glad took the extra time, because they came out so much nicer.

Using a ruler with a diagonal line to match to the seam, cut each square, including the four corners, to 2 1/2”.

See how much neater they look?

Stitch the squares together side by side into rows with a 1/4” seam. Press the seams. Just so you don’t think this all went smoothly, see that third square in on the second row? The one with the short threads sticking out of it? I had to take that one out and sew it back in TWICE because somehow I kept turning it around! 😕

Stitch the rows together and press the seams.

Trim the edges if needed, making sure to stay 1/4” away from the star tips. Trim the backing and batting to match the top.

Lay the backing out, right side down. Add the batting and top, right side up. Pin well. Quilt as desired. Since this is only for display, I just stitched around, close to the star. I was afraid any stitching on the star itself would take away from the painted barn star effect I was going for.

Bind the edges using your favorite method. This is mine. I cut the binding 2 1/8” wide, and stitched it to the back by hand.

I was a little worried about using the wood background, but I’m really happy with it. It emphasizes the barn idea.

I don’t think I’m going to want to take this down if I ever get my wool applique finished!

Mini Barn Star Quilt from craftystaci.com

Fold Up Business Card Display Stand

February 20, 2019 CraftyStaci

I finally made a thing that’s been in my idea file for YEARS. It’s so simple, I’m not sure what the hold up was. Luckily, it turned out just the way I imagined, because otherwise that would have been the saddest build-up ever.

I made this business card display stand with craft show vendors in mind. They have to set up a table, and take it all down at the end, so having a stand that you can fold up flat and throw in a bag is handy. However, they aren’t the only ones who could use this handy holder. Anyone who needs to carry and display cards, this is for you.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this business card holder/display stand you’ll need:

outside fabric, 5 x 9 3/4”
inside fabric, 5 x 9 3/4”
pocket fabric, 5 x 3”
fusible interfacing, 5 x 9 3/4” (two) - I used Pellon 808 Craft Fuse, which is heavy but still workable
Velcro, 5/8 x 4” (one loop side, two hook side) - I like the Soft and Flexible variety, especially when using longer strips like this

On a side note, if you’re worried about wasting that 4” of loop Velcro, make a second holder and reverse the hook and loop pieces (one hook, two loop) to even it up!

Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the outside and inside fabric pieces.

Lay out the outside fabric piece. Pin one hook Velcro strip 7/16” from the bottom edge, centered side to side. Sew in place.

Stitch on the second hook Velcro strip in the same manner, 3 3/16” from the bottom edge.

Lay out the inside fabric piece, right side up. Stitch the Velcro loop strip 7/16” from the upper edge, centered side to side.

Fold the pocket wrong sides together and press, so it measures 1 1/2 x 5”.

Lay out the inside fabric, right side up, with the Velcro near the top. Line up the raw edges of the pocket with the bottom edge.

Lay the outside fabric piece over the top, right side down, with the Velcro near the bottom. Pin the layers together.

Stitch a 1/4” seam around the edge, leaving 3” open on the side above the pocket. Clip the corners.

Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening.

Topstitch all the way around, close to the edge.

With the inside layer up, starting from the end with the Velcro, draw lines at the following distances from that end:

1”
3 3/4”
6 1/2”

I used a Frixion pen, which I highly recommend because you can iron the line away when you’re finished with it. Just be aware that it will sometimes leave a light-colored line. If you’re sewing over it you can’t really see it, but if you misplace a mark you’ll notice it.

Stitch along each pen line.

Fold at the stitch lines and attach the loop Velcro to the hook behind the pocket to use as a stand.

Standing Business Card Holder from Crafty Staci

To flatten it for travel, unhook the Velcro, fold the flap forward over the pocket and wrap around until the loop reaches the other hook strip.

If you happen to have vertical cards, like I do, just turn them upright while they’re in the stand.

Business Card Display Stand with vertical business cards from craftystaci.com

Make it to match your brand colors, and you’re all set to hand out your business cards anywhere you go!

Business Card Holder from craftystaci.com

If you’re a craft show vendor, check out my other tutorials and posts to help get you organized:

Starry Night Quilt

January 16, 2019 CraftyStaci

I’ve finished three quilts since last June. That probably doesn’t sound all that impressive, but let me put it in perspective. If you leave out those three, and small projects like wall hangings and table runners, I could count on my fingers the number of quilts I’ve ever finished. I’d probably even have a pinkie or two left over. I am NOT a fast quilter.

I have a quilt top in my sewing room that I started when we moved into our current house. That was in 2003. Yeah. I pulled it out and finished piecing it last year. The fabrics I liked sixteen years ago are not what I would choose now, and it’s kind of a weird size. I made my own pattern, which turned out okay, but I didn’t know anything about standard, usable quilt sizes or the idea of not chopping a large-scale print into oblivion.

I even pieced a back for it, which I think I might like more than the front. I’m planning to figure out a way to add more length to it and maybe find it a home that isn’t mine.

The positive fallout was that it inspired me to make some other large quilts. I started with one for my son, which I was forced to finish in a hurry in order to take it to him in Italy last year. I’m going to wait a little longer to show you that one, because I drew up the pattern myself and I want to share that with you.

The next quilt was for my daughter and son-in-law, which I started right before that same Italy trip in late April. And…I finished it last week. Watch this space for that quilt soon as well.

Today I want to show you the one I finished for Christmas. I made this one for a dear family friend, and she loved it. It was fun to plan, fun to make, and extra fun to give. I’d feel bad that I made her cry, but I’m pretty sure they were happy tears.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

This particular friend loves purple, black, and green. She also loves things that sparkle. I considered using a dragon theme, but I decided to go with space instead. I started building the quilt with the Starry Night pattern from sweetjane.

The pattern includes both a baby quilt and lap quilt size. It was easy to follow, and the fabric requirements were spot on. Ironically, I didn’t realize how similar this pattern was to my Vegas quilt until I was finished. Even if I had, I still would have bought this pattern. I needed some supervision on this one. Maybe guidance is a better word.

I bought most of the cotton fabrics from SewWhatQuiltShop on Etsy. I needed 14 different prints that fit into my color and theme, and surprisingly they had me covered on 12 of them. The other two I had in my stash.

I wanted a metallic gold for the stars and binding, and I purchased one in that batch, but when I received it there were care instructions on the selvage that let me know just how delicate it was. That wasn’t going to work at all for my dog and cat loving friend, so I ordered a different fabric from CatesSewModern, also on Etsy. It’s machine washable, and was the perfect color for this project.

Starry Night Quilt with space fabrics on craftystaci.com

I meant for this quilt to be cuddled, by human and animal, so I went with Minky for the back. I found a gorgeous, rich eggplant from CaliQuiltCo that couldn’t have been more perfect.

Getting a random pattern without the same two fabrics touching was the most challenging part of this whole thing. In the end, there was something very satisfying about achieving it. And if I’m wrong, and I didn’t, it’s in someone else’s house where I won’t know.

After I was done with the piecing, I decided to hire out the quilting. Honestly, I was so happy with it at that point I just didn’t want to ruin it. My friend Kristi from My Quilting Loft (where I teach sewing workshops) offers longarming services, so she helped me choose a perfect swirl and star design and some purple thread. When she was finished it looked great on the front, but the Minky back was beautiful. The photo doesn’t do it justice.

I also made a matching pillowcase with the leftover fabrics. It was great for putting the quilt inside, and she loved it as well.

Minky pillowcase with pieced cuff from craftystaci.com

Looking back, I now realize this is the first quilt I’ve made start to finish using a pattern I’ve purchased. And I’d do it again in a heartbeat. Not that I won’t still make some that start with just me and a piece of graph paper, but it was nice to have the layout, fabric requirements, and assembly instructions laid out for me. It’s kind of like the difference between cooking from a recipe or making it up as you go. There’s room for both in my kitchen - and my sewing room!

Quick Table Runner

January 9, 2019 CraftyStaci

One of these years I’ll have to give you a little tour of my Christmas decorations when they’re up. We go a little crazy. You wouldn’t know it from the outside, with our one strand of lights, but on the inside it’s Santa’s village. My husband pointed out that I’ll be able to get a bigger tree when we move to Montana because I’ll have taller ceilings, and I couldn’t be more excited.

Because it’s a winter wonderland from the day after Thanksgiving until New Year’s Day, everything looks very bare when it’s gone. I decided I needed a little color on my dining room table to spice things up. This quick table runner was the perfect solution.

You’ve probably seen this basic style of table runner before. It’s often called a “10 Minute Table Runner.” Uh, no. Maybe 20 - 30 minutes if you’ve already selected your fabric and don’t add any embellishments. Maybe. I suspect no one means you can literally make it in 10 minutes, but maybe it’s an exaggeration meant to indicate that it’s quick and easy. And that it is.

To make this you’ll need:

1/3 yard feature fabric (12” x width of fabric)
1/2 yard coordinating fabric (18” x width of fabric)
1/8 yard accent fabric (4 1/2” x width of fabric) or scraps

You don’t need any batting for this one. I was skeptical about that, but it’s a nice runner without it.

This is a great project for using a larger scale print that you don’t want to cut up. Keep in mind that if you’re going to use a directional print for the feature fabric that it will be upside down or sideways from all but one view. Also, I recommend avoiding stripes or plaids for the coordinating fabric. It would be very difficult to match up, and it’s very noticeable if it’s not.

Cut the 1/8 yard accent fabric into ten 3” squares.

Fold each square in half diagonally, with wrong sides together, and press. Fold in half diagonally again and press.

You should end up with triangles, typically called prairie points in quilting. If your accent fabric is directional, make sure to fold all of the squares so the pattern is going in the same direction. Set those aside.

Pin one long edge of the two remaining fabrics with right sides together. One piece will likely be longer than the other. We’ll trim that later. Stitch a 1/4” seam.

You’ll notice I didn’t trim any of the selvages at this point. Since I’ll be trimming both ends later, I didn’t bother. I just chose one end to match up. However, if you’re having trouble getting things to line up, or it just bugs you, go ahead and cut them off.

Pin the remaining long edges, right sides together, and stitch a 1/4” seam, creating a tube. One of your pieces is wider than the other, so the wider will bunch up during this step.

Turn the tube right side out. Adjust the sides so that the feature fabric is centered. The two coordinating borders should be about 1 1/2” wide each. You can measure if you like. I just eyeballed it. Press.

Trim both short ends of the runner to even them up and remove the selvages.

Fold the runner in half lengthwise with the feature fabric facing out. Stitch each short end with a 1/4” seam.

Press the seam open.

Turn the ends (not really right side out, but the same idea) so the seam is to the inside and it creates a point on each end. Press with the seam centered.

Slide the raw edge of each of the prairie points under the straight edge of the triangle by 1/4”. Make sure they are spaced evenly. Pin well.

Stitch close to the edge of both triangles.

You can also add a few extra touches of your own, like larger prairie points or tassels on the ends. Maybe a few buttons?

Quick Table Runner with Button Trim craftystaci.com

I pulled out some white ric rac to show you what that might look like, but I liked it so much I went ahead and sewed it on. It almost makes my teeth hurt it’s so cute!

The finished table runner should measure about 14 1/2 x 42”, depending on the width of your fabric. Perfect for the center of most tables.

Another thing I love about this table runner, and its lack of batting, is that it folds up really small to store. That means you can have one for every season!

Want to see more of my sewing tutorials? Click here!

40 No-Sew Fabric Projects

October 31, 2018 CraftyStaci

I wish I could remember what got this particular ball rolling, but that info is long gone. It’s somewhere with everyone’s phone number and what I meant to do when I walked into this room. No matter, I’m here today to share the result.

There are so many great projects out there that are made with fabric, but don’t require a bit of sewing. In fact, there are a few of these I didn’t believe until I read the instructions. Some of it is the availability of strong adhesives, but many are just plain old ingenuity. Let’s get to not-sewing!

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

Bendable Fabric Cake Flags from Poppytalk

Burlap Placemats from The Country Chic Cottage

Canvas Zipper Pouch from The View from Here

Cloth Napkins from The Sweetest Occasion

Fabric Ball from The Country Chic Cottage

Fabric Flowers from Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom

Fleece Poncho from Mommies Messes and Mayhem

Folded Fabric Wreath Ornament from Kits by Kalt

Handmade Fabric Deco Tape from My Poppet

Layered Flower Embellishment from The Thinking Closet

Lighted Rag Garland from Infarrantly Creative

Office Curtains from The Magic Brush Inc

Pillowcase Dress from Scattered Thoughts of a Crafty Mom

T-Shirt Pocket from Oh the Lovely Things

You’ll find these, and other no-sew fabric projects, on this Pinterest board!

Curvy Fabric Gift Card Holder

September 5, 2018 CraftyStaci

My only remaining issue is that I like to give something a little creative. I've given many a coffee shop gift card along with a handmade coffee cozy. But I needed something cute I could put a card into, and that's how this project was born.

Curvy Gift Card Holders from Crafty Staci

To make this you'll need:

this pattern
7 1/2" square cotton fabric for the outside
7 1/2" square cotton fabric for the inside
7 1/2" square Craft Fuse (heavy crafty interfacing)

Cut one outside, one inside, and one Craft Fuse using the pattern.

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the outside piece.

Pin the outside and inside with right sides together. Stitch 1/4" from the edge. Leave 2 1/2" open on one curve, but leave the needle in the project and change your stitch length to a long basting stitch. Baste the opening closed.

Press both sides of the fabric under along the basting stitches. Remove the basting.

Clip in at each of the corners. Turn right side out. Push out the curves. Press, turning in the opening where you pressed previously.

Top stitch all the way around close to the edge.

Draw a line from each inner corner to the next, creating a square in the center.

Stitch along the lines.

Fold each tab in, along the stitching line, and press.

Fold each tab in, overlapping the previous. Tuck the last under the first, the same way you'd close the top of a cardboard box. Press well.

Open back up, place the gift card in the bottom.

Refold and tie a ribbon, baker's twine, or other stringy thing around the middle.

And with that, I fulfilled my need to give something crafty, while also giving something useful - hopefully yours too!

Curvy Fabric Gift Card Holder from Crafty Staci

French Braid Mug Mat

August 22, 2018 CraftyStaci

It's time for the newest in my monthly Mug Mat series! This one was inspired by a hairstyle I love, but was never able to master - the French braid.

I've almost always had long hair, and I really wanted to be able to do it, but it always turned out looking like it had been done by a toddler after a cupcake binge. Not in a fashionably messy way either. Fortunately, when it comes to fabric, I've got this.

French Braid Mug Mat from craftystaci.com

To make this mug mat, you'll need:

fourteen 1 1/2 x 7" strips, cut from 7 different fabrics
fusible fleece (at least 13 x 8 1/2" - we'll cut it later)
fabric for the backing (at least 6 1/2 x 8 1/2" - we'll cut it later)

Lay out the strips with the ends alternating as shown here. You can grab them as you go if you prefer a more random pattern. I planned mine out because I like to sleep at night, and random is HARD.

Numbered pieces for french braid mug mat

Grab the top two strips, numbers 1 and 2. Line up the bottom edge of strip 1 with the far left top edge of strip 2, with right sides together. They will be perpendicular to each other. Stitch 1/4" from the edge of strip 1.

Press strip 1 away.

Lay strip 3 over strip 1 and lined up with the bottom left edge of strip 2. Stitch 1/4" from the lower edge.

Press strip 3 away.

Repeat on the right side with strip 4.

Continue sewing on strips in the same manner, alternating sides, until all the strips are attached. Be sure to press each strip before adding the next.

Trim the sides 4" from the center on each side. At the end, I'll show you what I did with those sides, along with all the other bits I cut off.

Your piece should be 8" across.

Trim the bottom across, even with the lowest point on the side.

Trim across the top even with the upper corner of the first seam.

At this point you should have a rectangle that measures something like 5 7/8 x 8". If your measurements vary a little don't worry about it. We're cutting the other pieces to match this one, so there's wiggle room.

Press well. Use the top as a pattern to cut out two pieces of fusible fleece and one backing.

Fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the top and the backing. Pin the two right sides together. Stitch 1/4" from the edge, leaving 2 1/2" open at the bottom. Clip the corners.

Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening.

Stitch all the way around, close to the edge.

You'll notice this braid runs top to bottom when the mat is horizontal.

If you'd like yours to be vertical, use 17 strips instead of 14 and trim appropriately.

Now, about those pieces I trimmed off earlier. I also saved the extra strips I'd cut but didn't use and the bits from the vertical braid. It was kind of a puzzle. I just turned and lined up until I had something resembling a rectangle. I sewed them together, trimmed them, and cut the guts and backing to fit. Mug mat #3!

Jelly Roll Rug Turned Placemats

August 8, 2018 CraftyStaci

Jelly Roll Placemats from Crafty Staci #jellyroll #jellyrollrug #jellyrollplacemats #placemats

I don't remember where I saw it for the first time, but like just about everyone else, I fell in love with the Jelly Roll Rug pattern from RJ Designs. I knew I had to give it a try. Little did I know, that wouldn't be as simple as it sounded, and I'd need all the patience I could muster. And apparently a little more.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

First let me say, this rug is totally doable. There are very thorough instructions included, and it seems like just about everyone is offering a class or video on how it's done. The fact that mine was a fail is all on me, but I'd like to share my experience to help you avoid some of my mistakes. And there's a happy ending.

To make this rug, obviously you need a jelly roll. If you're unfamiliar with the term, it's about 40 - 42 strips of fabric that are each 2 1/2" wide and cut the width of the fabric, so typically 42 - 44" long. They're sold rolled into a neat little circle and coordinate well because they're usually all from one fabric line. The name Jelly Roll is specific to Moda Fabrics, but other manufacturers sell the same combo under different names.

Clover Hollow Jelly Roll from materialgirlchic

The hot mess below is mine. I have tons of fabric, so I couldn't justify buying more to try this out. I ended up cutting my own strips. They're pretty laid out, but apparently that neat roll thing is harder than it looks.

I did buy a couple of rolls of the pre-cut batting. It was kinda spendy, but I'm glad I did. The thought of cutting all those strips of batting and attaching them together was daunting. I picked it up at one of my local fabric shops, but I understand that given the popularity of these rugs it's tricky to find online. There are a handful of Etsy shops that have it available for pre-order, arriving later this month.

I'm not going to give a step-by-step here, because this isn't my pattern, but I'll share some highlights and tips. The first is, string piecing is your friend. You're sewing lots of these together, and it only took me about 20 minutes to snip them apart and trim the seams afterward. I didn't even get through my whole glass of wine.

The fan folding she recommends in the pattern? Yeah, do that. It took me a while, but I knew if I didn't I'd have a stringy, tangled mess. Since I couldn't take a photo of myself doing this, imagine that stack of fabric on the chair below is in my lap while I sew.

It actually went very smoothly. I only folded and clipped the first couple of feet to get started, then I just folded as I went. Who has enough sewing clips to hold 50 YARDS worth??? I personally own like twelve of them.

Be sure your needle is down when you stop to fold, so everything doesn't shift on you. Also, unwind the batting from the side, rather than putting it on the floor and letting it spool off from above, because you don't want it twisted. If your paper towel holder is skinny enough to hold it, you might give that a shot. Unfortunately, mine wasn't, but I just unrolled a bit periodically.

I did deviate from the instructions when it came to where I put the seam on the strips. Rather than stitch down the middle, I stayed close to the double-folded edge. I had looked at lots (oh, so many) of these finished rugs before I started, and I just preferred that look.

Also, rather than use the batting seam tape I bought to attach the two rolls of batting to each other, I just butted the two ends up next to each other and zigzagged over them.

A quick note on bobbins - you're gonna need a ton of them for this project. Pre-wind as many as you can to make changing them out quick and easy.

I didn't follow the wind-as-you-go instructions to make the ball, but I did wind it all up at the end. Again, I knew if I didn't I'd end up with a tangled mess.

When it came time to start sewing the rug, I forgot to switch to a denim needle and broke the first two. Lesson learned.

My sewing machine hated the first couple of curves, but we got through it. I stitched about 3 1/2 strips worth, then took it to my ironing board, doused it with Mary Ellen's Best Press and pressed well, which took it from this:

To this:

So far, so good, right? It kept trying to curve, and I kept taking it back to the ironing board and reminding it who was the boss.

Right about here is where I lost my grip on this project.

You might have noticed, but the more strips you sew on, the bigger this thing gets. Feeding it through the machine became a full-body sport, with my left arm and elbow doing a lot of the work. One of my many mistakes was that I used my weaker sewing machine. Had I used the one with more power, I think it would have turned out differently, but I didn't think it would make a difference. I learned when I was making the placemats later that it really, really did.

That whole thing about having the rug even with the work surface on your machine is real too. You can see, mine was just dragging on the table. I think it would have turned out better if I'd made the effort to keep it flat. As it was, I ended up with this:

No amount of ironing, or swearing as it turns out, would coax this thing into submission. It had taken over, and it knew that I knew. If I didn't mind leaving it draped over the back of a chair I had something, but otherwise it was a bust.

I knew I could remove the stitching and try again, but here's the rub - I didn't like how the color combo looked either. Again, as all of this, my own fault, but it wasn't something I could fix. I didn't take into consideration that the outer rings would be larger, and therefore less prominent in the design. Ugh.

At this point I did what I do with all of my mistakes - I ignored it for a while so the rage could subside. When it was almost behind me, I thought "Well, one way or the other it has to come apart," so I clipped the threads at the end and ripped.

I ripped for about 5 minutes, until it was a pile of rubble. It was so satisfying.

It took me another hour and a half to remove all that thread. Totally worth it.

Ripped apart Jelly Roll Rug and pile of thread

I measured the fabric cord, and I had about 148 feet. I cut that into four equal pieces of 37 feet each. If I couldn't have a rug I was going to have some placemats, dammit.

I used the same technique described in the pattern to make the placemats, only I made the first bend at 8 1/2". Instead of making one big rug I made four smaller ones. My theory here was that my rug was still flat at that size, so I should be okay.

I was right. I also switched to my better sewing machine (the old one from when Pfaffs were still made in Germany) and it powered through, putting my newer machine to shame. I did some periodic ironing and they turned out flat. Hallelujah.

I was afraid the color combination was weird (I was planning to use them anyway BTW), but they work with my colorful Fiestaware dishes. That, and my husband commented how much he liked them. They're keepers.

The first moral of my long story is that it's good to get outside your comfort zone on a project once in a while, but when you do, follow the instructions! I guess moral number two is that it's not over until it's over. Take that Jelly Roll Rug.

How I Saved my Jelly Roll Rug Fail on craftystaci.com #craftfail #craftsave #jellyrollrug

Sisters Outdoor Quilt Show 2018

July 18, 2018 CraftyStaci

I've mentioned many times that I've lived my entire life in Oregon. I haven't seen everything the state has to offer during that time, but I've visited much of it.

There's a town a little west of the middle called Sisters, named after the Three Sisters mountains nearby. It's an adorable place any day, but every year in July they fill the town with quilts…

Hexagon Mug Mat

July 11, 2018 CraftyStaci

When I'm working on a monthly series like these mug mats, I have a list of potential ideas I work from all year, but I also have some spur-of-the-moment patterns that make their way in. This month, I suddenly wanted to make one shaped like a hexagon…

Fabric Weaving Mini Quilt

April 11, 2018 CraftyStaci

Last summer our quilt guild was lucky enough to get a visit from the talented and bubbly Mathew Boudreaux, otherwise known as Mister Domestic. I came across him on Instagram and told our vice president he was local and wondered if he spoke at guilds. She contacted him, and he said he hadn't been asked before but would be happy to come.

We feel a little like we got away with something, because ever since we hosted his visit his star has been on the rise. Among other things, he has his own fabric line coming out soon. Our little guild probably couldn't afford his speaking fee now, and we couldn't be happier for him.

Fabric Weaving Pillows from Mister Domestic.jpg

One of the things Mathew talked about was fabric weaving. He showed us several projects he had completed, including those pillows above, and introduced us to the tool his friend Tara Curtis invented to make it all a bit easier. I was fascinated, and I went home and ordered the Wefty Needle that night.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

I did end up having a hard time finding instructions on how exactly this weaving thing is done. If you have the option I'd recommend searching YouTube for videos. I have in-the-boonies internet, and videos eat up too much of my limited data, so I can't vouch for any of them specifically. I did see many by artists I'm familiar with, like Crafty Gemini and Mister Domestic himself.

For my first project, I ended up looking at how this weaving project on Sew Much Moore was started, then kind of winging it on the weaving part. It's a pretty straightforward over and under thing, so it wasn't difficult. The triaxal weave I tried later, that's another story. More on that in a minute.

The first thing you need is fabric strips. I cut mine 1 1/2" wide and used this handy tool to press the edges in.

The size of your project dictates how many strips you'll need and in what length.

These weaving projects are typically made by pinning them to a foam board, and since I cut a large board in half, I was working with a 15 x 20" surface.

You start by laying down a piece of fusible that's about the size you'd like your project to be. I just used basic midweight fusible interfacing for the base and it worked out fine.

The next step is to pin your strips onto the board. You want them to extend a bit past your interfacing. I was cutting it a little close here.

I felt like my regular pins would be really tall and get in the way, so I used tiny 1/2" sequin pins. They're lower profile, and definitely make the weaving easier. A magnetic pin holder is very handy to keep those micro pins from getting out of hand too.

Once you've pinned down the first set of strips, each close together and flat, you slip one end of a strip into the Wefty needle and start weaving over and under in the other direction.

You'll need to make sure these strips are right up next to each other without gaps, and pin the ends of each. I got so excited about how well this was going I forgot to take any photos until I was finished. Maybe now I understand why these tutorials are hard to come by.

Once you've finished your weaving, you need to remove all those pins. Carefully slide the project onto your ironing board and press well to attach the strips to the fusible interfacing. By the way, I tried doing this before I removed it from the foam board, and now my board is warped.

In order to make sure everything is secure, take it to the sewing machine and stitch around the outer edge.

Trim the edges so they're even. A rotary cutter and acrylic ruler works well for this.

To make this into a mini quilt, I stitched 1 1/2" strips onto each side for a border.

And here's where I cheated. I cut backing and fusible fleece in the same size and layered the three of them with the fabrics right sides together. I stitched around the outside edge, leaving a few inches open. I flipped it right side out, pressed, and stitched around the outer edge. I added another row of stitching near the inside of the border. Staci - 1, Binding - 0.

This was definitely something new for me. I love look of the ombre fabrics. I think I might have liked this even more if I had stuck to only those, but the dots are kind of fun too.

I enjoyed it so much, in fact, I immediately started on my next project. I really wanted to try the triaxal weave, which ends up looking like tumbling blocks. I went back to the tutorial at Sew Much Moore, but this is where things went wrong. Entirely my fault for not knowing what a 30 degree angle looks like.

The grey right here, WAY off. It's too steep. Oh, and it's also just woven wrong in every other way.

Of course, I didn't figure any of that out until much later, so I was frustrated that the third set of strips wasn't creating the design I was aiming for. I ended up throwing it on a shelf, knowing that someday I would take it down and realize what was wrong. I was totally right about that, eight months later.

I pulled it out a couple of days ago, immediate thought "Nope," and started over. See how even this first row of the third strips is making the tumbling block look? The photos from this tutorial from The House That Lars Built helped a lot.

This weave was more complicated than the basic weave I did first, but I'd definitely do it again. Especially now that my brain gets it.

I think the idea that you're basically creating your own fabric design makes this even more fun.

I did end up making something out of this one too, and I'll share the pattern for that project soon!

Helena, Montana

April 4, 2018 CraftyStaci

If you've read more than a couple of my blog posts, you know how much I love my home state. Oregon is beautiful, and the beach, the mountains, the city or the desert are each only a couple of hours away. But here's the thing - it's the only place I've ever lived. I could drive to the hospital where I was born in under 45 minutes from my house...

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag

January 24, 2018 CraftyStaci

The fabric for this project was provided by Sewing Studio, where you can find fabric, notions, patterns - all the things you need for your next sewing project. But even better, they're offering a discount code for you! Just enter "Craftystaci" to receive a 15% discount on your entire order at www.sewingstudio.com!

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag with Adjustable Strap from CraftyStaci.com

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

As my tutorials often do, this one started out because I needed something. I have a tablet that I like to take with me when we travel, and sometimes when I just want to go to a coffee shop and watch a class.

I have a laptop bag, but it's way too big, and I don't like how the pockets are arranged. I want to be able to take a few things with me, without everything coming out with the tablet when I pull it out. Problem solved, and I'll get right to it, because this is a long one!

To make this bag you'll need:

this pattern, printed and taped together
Fabric for the outside of the bag (something medium weight - I used canvas)
Fabric to line the bag and make the card pocket (I used a very lightweight denim)
Fusible interfacing
Two 1 1/2" d-rings (preferably welded ends so they don't pull apart in use)
Two 1 1/2" snap hooks
One 1 1/2" flat strap slider
7" zipper (minimum - I like to go a couple of inches longer and cut off the excess)
3 inches 3/4" wide Velcro
Carabiner

Using the pattern, cut out two for the outside of the bag, two for the lining, two for the top flap, and four from the interfacing. I cut the front outer piece from the lining fabric since much of it is covered by the pockets and I wanted the print for that with contrast between the two.

After you've done that, cut off the top of the pattern at the horizontal line. Keep that top part but set it aside - you'll need it later.

Fold the fabric in half, line up the top edge of the pattern with the fold, and cut out the front pocket.

You'll also need to cut the following pieces:

7 1/2 x 12" for the inside of the zipper pocket
4 1/2 x 19 1/4" for the card pocket (something fairly lightweight - my lining fabric worked well)
1 1/4 x 24" for the binding for the card pocket
3" x 48" for the strap (piece two pieces together as needed to get length)
3 x 3 1/2" for the d-ring ends
2 x 3" for the key carabiner loop

Because there are several pieces to this and I didn't want to get them confused, I wrote each on a scrap of paper and pinned it on the piece.

The seams on this are 1/4” unless specifically indicated otherwise.

Apply the fusible interfacing to both outer bag pieces and both flap pieces. Fold the front pocket in half with wrong sides together and press. Set aside.

We'll start the assembly by installing the zippered pocket on the outer front of the bag. Grab that top bit of the pattern you cut off earlier. Cut out the section marked "Zipper." Flip the front outer piece over. Flip the pattern piece over as well and pin it in place with the upper edges matched up. Trace inside the rectangle with a pen or pencil. Remove the pattern.

Poke a pin into each corner. Flip the piece over. Using the pins as a guide, place the inside pocket piece face down with the upper edge and both sides 1/2" outside of the rectangle.

Pin in place. Flip over and pin at the rectangle on the back. Remove all pins from the front. Stitch along the drawn line.

Using sharp scissors, carefully snip through both layers in the center of the rectangle. Continue cutting to 3/8" from the end. From that point, snip to each corner, creating a Y shape. Cut as close to the corner as you can without clipping any stitches. Repeat on the other end of the rectangle.

Flip over and push the entire pocket through the opening.

Pull all the edges through until the pocket lies flat against the back. Press well.

Place the zipper face up behind the opening. Pin well. Stitch around close to the edge using a zipper foot.

Fold the pocket up with right sides together so the edges are even. Pin on the side facing the bag. Stitch around the edge, still using the zipper foot, from the side that faces the bag. Fold the bag back out of the way as you go. If the zipper pull gets in the way as you approach it, stop with your needle down, lift the presser foot, unzip the zipper a few inches, lower the presser foot and continue.

Clip off the excess zipper. Pin the pocket up near the zipper so it doesn't get sewn into any of the following steps.

Pin the lower pocket to the outer front with the lower edges even. It should still be folded in half with wrong sides together, just as it was when you cut it out. Stitch along the vertical lines shown on the pattern.

To prep card pocket, mark the fold lines as shown on this guide (the two pages overlap at the 19.25" marking). Press as indicated. A little spray starch would help keep the folds crisp.

Fold up the pockets. You may want to pin down the center. Fold the card pocket binding in half, right sides together, and press. Fold both edges into the middle and press again. Open out one edge and line it up with the edge of the card pocket, starting at the bottom left and continuing around to the bottom right. Stitch, using this trick for the corners. Trim off the excess.

Wrap the binding over the edge to the back. Press. Stitch across the top only, near the seam. Pin over the top of the large pocket on the left of the bag. The stitching on the right should go over the top of the existing stitching, so place the pocket accordingly. Make sure the bottom edges are even, and trim off the curve to match. Stitch down both sides.

I originally planned to have this bag close with a magnetic snap, but realized that might not be the best for my electronics, so I went with Velcro instead.

Find the center of the front. Cut the hook side of the Velcro down to 2". Pin it vertically at the center of the front with the bottom 1 1/2" from the bottom of the bag. Stitch in place. Do the same with the 3" hoop side on the inner flap piece. The varying sizes of the two Velcro sides gives it a little wiggly room so it will still close when full.

Unpin the zipper pocket on the back. Lay the outer back piece right side down over the front. Stitch the sides and bottom. Do the same with the two flap pieces. Sew the lining pieces in the same manor, but leave 5" open in the middle of the bottom.

Turn the flap right side out. Press. Topstitch near the seam. Turn the lining right side out.

Fold the d-ring ends the long way, right sides together. Stitch down the side. Turn and press with the seam in the center. Topstitch down both sides.

Fold the key loop wrong sides together. Press. Turn the edges into the center and press again. Stitch down both sides.

Fold the flap up over so it covers the Velcro and pin. A safety pin would be best here.

Slide the flap into the bag with with back and outer flap together. Pin in place with the edges at the seams. Make sure the pin heads are to the outside because we're adding more layers to this and want to be able to remove the pins as we sew. You can baste each layer instead, but personally I hate having to remove all that stitching later.

Slide the d-ring onto the d-ring end and fold in half with the seam inside. Stitch across near the ring. Unpin the flap near the seam and center the d-ring over the seam. Put the flap back on top and pin.

Turn the lining right side out. Slide it into the bag and pin, matching the seams. Fold the key carabiner loop in half and pin it with the ends side-by-side between the bag and lining, 2" from the left seam on the front.

Stitch around the top edge through all the layers. Because there's a lot riding on that seam, I zigzagged the seam allowance. At the very least, I'd consider stitching it a second time.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Remove the pin from the flap.

Stitch the opening in the lining closed. I just stitched over it with my machine, but you could do it by hand if you prefer a cleaner look. Push the lining into the bag. Press the seam. Stitch around the edge and across the back close to that seam, pressing the key loop down toward the bag as you go over it. Stitch across that loop again 1/4" from the seam. Clip on the carabiner.

We're almost there! To make the strap, fold both short ends under 1/4" and press. Fold the strap right sides together, matching the long edge, and stitch. Turn the tube right side out and press with the seam at the center. Stitch near both long edges.

Slide one end (closer to the seam where you pieced your fabric together) over the end of the snap hook and fold over 1 1/4". Stitch across near the hook end, near the strap end, and a third time right between the two.

Slide the strap slider over the other end, with the bar under the strap, and up a few inches. Slip the remaining hook onto the strap. Push the strap end under the slider bar from the side furthest from the hook.

Pull until the strap overlaps 1 1/4". Stitch across near the strap end, near the slider and midway in between.

Your strap is finished, and once you attach it, so is your bag!

Everything on the list of what I wanted this bag to hold has a spot.

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag - Everything it will hold

And none of it will come spilling out when I pull out my tablet. Did you notice the matching key fob wristlet clipped to the carabiner over there?

I also love that the strap can adjust from a shoulder bag to cross-body.

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag with Adjustable Strap

Once again, my thanks to Sewing Studio for sponsoring this post!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

You’ll find these, and other no-sew fabric projects, on this Pinterest board!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!

Sign up for the Crafty Staci Newsletter

Thank you!