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Sewing Softies

June 24, 2020 CraftyStaci
Softie Patterns you can sew at Crafty Staci #softiepatterns #softietutorials #sewingsofties #stuffedanimals #plushtoys

I recently discovered that I had a big stockpile of links to various softie patterns. Apparently they attract my attention…A LOT.

I often include stuffed critters in my Friday Favorites, and sometimes in my newsletter, but this particular collection was getting a bit out of control. That means it’s time to share! Here are a bunch of my favorite softie patterns out there:

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy click here. 


I’m glad some of these patterns come in sets, because there’s no way I could pick a favorite from these cute buddies by Gingermelon.

Pocket Pets from Gingermelon

I’m pretty sure I had a doll that flipped over into another (or maybe one of my sisters did) like this one from Shiny Happy World.

Topsy Turvy Doll from Shiny Happy World

I love everything about these mermaids from Petra’s Wonderland, right down to the shape at the end of their tails.

Mermaid Dolls from Petra's Wonderland

One of my son’s favorite toys when he was small was a sword. This pattern from You Made my Day might come in handy for the next generation.

Soft Sword from You Made my Day

If you have a sword, a shield only makes sense, like this one from Simply Notable.

Pillow Shield from Simply Notable

These unicorns from Precious Patterns would brighten up any day.

Unicorn from Precious Patterns

You probably don’t have to guess why Imagine Gnats called this one her peanut baby.

Peanut Baby from Imagine Gnats

I’ve been a fan of Little Dear for a while now (remember the crib mobile?), and this set feels perfect for the sunny weather.

Tropical Felt Animals from Little Dear

I’m starting to think there’s nothing Craft Passion can’t make from a sock, and they’re all just as cute as these pugs.

Sock Pug from Craft Passion

There’s a lot of fun mix-and-match options for these dolls from Dear Sweet Darlings.

Jack and Jill Dolls from Dear Sweet Darlings

This bear’s only job is to sit in your window and wave at the neighborhood. You’ll find the instructions right here on Crafty Staci.

Neighborhood Bear from Crafty Staci

This pattern from Gathered is probably the softest robot ever.

Robot Softies from Gathered.png

One of the great things about handmade softies is that they can be as simple or as complicated as you’d like. This sweet elephant from Retro Mama is perfect just the way she is.

Stuffed Elephant from Retro Mama

I’ll bet you didn’t know you wanted to make a stuffed otter, like this one from Fluffmonger, until right this minute.

Squeakers the Otter from Fluffmonger

These little ones from Nata Patterns are the cutest scrap buster project!

Rag Dolls from Nata Patterns

Who wouldn’t love this bright, cheery parrot from Little Button Diaries sitting on your shoulder?

Shoulder Parrot from Little Button Diaries

I can imagine this cute dog from Hobbycraft in SO many different fabrics.

Patchwork Dog from Hobby Craft

I’d love to see this cow from Annie’s Craft Store in some other color combinations - maybe a whole herd!

Cow from Annie's Craft Store

My little granddaughter would love playing with this ball from eSheep Patterns. So many places to grab!

Puzzle Ball from eSheep Designs

I had to include this pattern from Ricrac Sews because A, they’re adorable, and B, how often do you see a pattern to make starfish?

Sea Stars from RicRac Sews

This ice cream cone from Sew Kate Sew won’t melt in the summer sun.

Ice Cream Cone from See Kate Sew

Check out the delicate legs on these deer from Teacup Lion.

Deer from Teacup Lion

This frog from Sew a Softie makes me want to just sit with him a while.

Frog Softie from Sew a Softie

I kinda love how Choly Knight went with chunky arms instead of gigantic feet here.

Bigfoot and Yeti from Choly Knight

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In sewing, crafts Tags softies, softie, plush, stuffed animals, dolls, sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, crafts, diy, toys, June 2020
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July Ice Pop - Months of Mugs Block of the Month

June 17, 2020 CraftyStaci
Months of Mugs Block of the Month - July Ice Pop by Crafty Staci #bom #blockofthemonth #monthsofmugs #calendarquilt #quiltblock

It’s Block of the Month day! I can’t believe we’re on month three already. If you didn’t catch them, click here for the May Flower and June Bee blocks.

Months of Mugs Quilt by Crafty Staci

July is probably the easiest block of the bunch, and who couldn’t use a little simplicity right now?

July Ice Pop

Here are a few basic details you’ll need for every block:

  • I used tone-on-tone prints for this quilt. Solids would work well also. More active prints are an option, but I recommend avoiding anything directional.

  • If you plan to print out the pattern, I recommend a binder to store it.

  • This will work a little differently than my usual tutorials in that there will be PDFs to download, and there won’t be photos for each step.

  • Each month will have a coloring page included so you can plan your design, or just do some stress-relieving coloring.

  • This pattern has only been tested by me. I STRONGLY recommend reading through it before beginning (actually, that’s true for any pattern or tutorial). I have sewn each block, but should you find any errors or anything that’s unclear I’d love to hear from you.

There are four PDFs you’ll need to get started, and they apply to the entire quilt. Please read each of them. I’ll also link to these in each block post:

Pattern Overview and General Instructions

Fabric Requirements

Embroidery Designs

Mug Handle Assembly

If you downloaded these previously, no need to do so again. They are the same.

July Frozen Pop

You can download the July Ice Pop instructions here. The July coloring page can be downloaded here.

July Ice Pop Coloring Page

I’d love to hear how your blocks are going so far! Tag me on social media @craftystaci. I’ll bet they’re cool! 😂

You can see all of the blocks available in this series here.

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In crafts, sewing, quilts Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, quilting, quilts, quilt, quilt block, quilts 2020, block of the month, Month of Mugs, coffee cup, coffee mug, mugs, ice pop, summer, June 2020
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Pause and Play Heart Mug Mat

June 10, 2020 CraftyStaci
Pause and Play Heart Mug Mat from Crafty Staci #mugmat #mugrug #heartquilt #miniquilt

A member of our quilt guild recently held an online quilt retreat to raise money for a pair of local charities. She wanted to give out a pattern each day, and asked if I would design something.

I really wanted whatever I did to represent the quarantine issue, but to still feel positive. I started to think about how we’ve had to “pause” our lives, and that I could use the double-line pause symbol somehow. But when I looked at my television remote, instead of just a double line, it’s actually the pause and play symbols combined into one.

Pause and Play Mug Mat from craftystaci.com

Even better, because not only does that show the break, but the resuming of “play” again in the future. To me, this says hope.

To make this Pause and Play Mug Mat you’ll need:

  • cotton fabric for the heart, background, and back

  • cotton fabric for the binding

  • wool or felt for the pause and play symbol appliqué

  • perle cotton or embroidery thread

  • fusible web

  • batting

Cut the following:

heart (cotton fabric)

two—2 1/2 x 2 1/2”

four—3 1/8 x 3 1/8”

one—4 1/2 x 4 1/2”

background (cotton fabric)

two—2 1/2 x 2 1/2”

four—3 1/8 x 3 1/8”

four—2 1/2 x 1 1/2”

appliqué (wool and fusible web - wait to cut these until instructed)

two—3/4 x 2 1/2”

one—1 3/4 x 1 3/4” (cut in half diagonally, only use one half)

back and batting (cotton fabric and batting)

9 1/2 x 9 1/2”

binding (cotton fabric)

2 1/2 x width of fabric

All seams are 1/4” and pressed toward the darker fabric.

Draw a diagonal line on the back of each 3 1/8” heart square. Pin one with right sides together to one background square and stitch 1/4” from the drawn line on each side. Cut along the line. Repeat with the remaining three 3 1/8” sets.

Draw diagonal lines and stitch

Trim all eight half square triangles to 2 1/2”.

Eight squares trimmed

Lay out two of the squares with the heart fabric pointing to the lower left. Cut 1” off the top edge, so 1 1/2” remains. Repeat with two more squares, but with the heart fabric pointing to the lower right. Discard the upper 1” portions of all four.

Squares trimmed to rectangles

With the heart sections still pointing in the directions they were when they were cut, sew a 2 1/2 x 1 1/2” background piece to the top of each one. This should bring the four squares back to 2 1/2 x 2 1/2”.

Rectangle pieces sewn together

Lay out the pieces as shown.

Lay out pieces in mat shape

Sew the squares together to create each section shown below:

Pause and Play Heart numbered sections
Sections sewn

Stitch sections 3 and 4 to section 5.

Sections 3, 4, and 5 sewn

After pressing, sew sections 1 and 2 on to the sides.

All sections sewn together

For the pause symbol appliqué, draw two 3/4 x 2 1/2” rectangles and one 1 3/4” square, cut in half diagonally to create a triangle (you’ll only need one half), onto the paper side of the fusible web. Press to the wool or felt.

Pause shapes drawn on web

Cut out. Remove the paper, place on the heart, and press. Hand stitch in place with the perle cotton or embroidery thread using your favorite stitch.

Pause symbol cut out

Layer the backing with wrong side up, batting, and the heart with right side up. Pin and quilt as you’d like. Trim away the excess batting and backing to match the front, approximately 8 1/4” square.

Mat quilted

Bind the mug rug as desired. I like to fold it in half, press, sew it onto the back first, then wrap it to the front and stitch it down.

Pause and Play Heart Mug Mat from craftystaci.com

Since I created this for the retreat, I have a one-page PDF of the directions. It doesn’t have the step-by-step photos, but you’re welcome to download it here.

Here’s looking forward to pressing play again!

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, diy, crafts, mug rug, mug mat, mini quilts, heart, hearts, June 2020, quilts 2020
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Papa and Kid BBQ Aprons

June 3, 2020 CraftyStaci
Papa and Kid BBQ Aprons from one yard of fabric from Crafty Staci #aprons #fathersday #bbqapron

I called these Papa and Kid aprons because I had my husband and our granddaughter in mind. He’s building an outdoor kitchen at our home this summer, so this seemed like something they’re going to need soon. However, these could be used by just about any big/little pair.

I don’t have a size range for these, so check the measurements of the pattern versus your wearers to make sure they will fit before you start cutting.

You can make BOTH of these barbeque aprons from one yard of fabric. Yep, ONE YARD makes BOTH! The layout to make that happen is very particular, so be sure to follow it. Let’s get cooking!

To make this you’ll need:

  • one yard of fabric, 40 usable inches wide (I used canvas. I recommend that, denim, home dec, duck, or outdoor fabric. Something fairly sturdy. Be sure to use a denim needle on your sewing machine)

  • pattern paper, newspaper, or any other paper you can tape together to support 22 x 30” and 15 x 19” rectangles

Before you cut the fabric you’ll need to make the apron body templates. For the Papa size, cut a rectangle 22 x 30” from the paper. Find the center of the 22” side that will be the top. Measure 5 1/4” from the center on both sides and mark.

Marks at top to cut template

Measure down from the top corner 12 1/2” on both 30” sides. Draw a diagonal line from that right hand mark to the right hand mark you made on the 22” top. Do the same on the left.

Draw line from neck to under arm

Cut away both triangles above the diagonal lines.

Template completed

To make the kid’s template, repeat the same steps as the adult, but measure 4” from both sides of the center on the 15” edge, and down 7” on the 19” sides.

Papa and Kid apron templates

Your fabric should measure at least 36 x 40”. The 40” side is horizontal here. Cut the following pieces, using this layout:

Papa and Kid BBQ Apron cutting layout

Papa

  • A Papa apron template

  • B 4 1/2 x 6 1/2”

  • C & D 2” x width of fabric (should be about 40”)

  • E & F 2 x 22”

Kid

  • G Kid apron template

  • H 3 1/4 x 5”

  • I 2” x width of fabric

  • J & K 2 x 20”

Before you start sewing, I’ll tell you a secret. I’d completely leave off those little pockets next time. I included them here because they’re on the finished product, and they are in the following instructions. They do make the front less plain, but they’re very small, and a little tough to sew in the heavy fabric. The choice is yours.

The directions for both aprons are the same for both aprons except for one small difference in the pocket placement, which I’ll note when we get there.

Fold all edges of the pocket under 1/2” and press. Fold the edge to the inside to create a 1/4” hem. Stitch close to one long edge.

Turn edges of pocket under

Pin the pocket 6” from the upper edge and centered side to side on the Papa apron. Stitch close to the sides and the bottom.

Pocket sewn onto apron.JPG

Place the pocket 3 1/2” from the upper edge on the Kid apron.

Pocket sewn onto kid apron

On both straight sides and upper edge of the apron, turn the edge under 1/2”, press, then turn the edge into the fold for 1/4” seams. Stitch each.

Roll side edges under and stitch

Fold the bottom edge under 1 1/4” and press. Turn the edge to the inside 1/4” and press. Stitch close to the inner fold to hem.

Hem bottom edge of apron

Turn the edge of the angled sides under 1 1/4” and press. Turn the edge under 1/4” again and press. Stitch close to the inner fold. You can either stop and start at the edges of the casing you’re creating, or stitch all the way to the edges of the apron for a more consistent look on the front.

Turn under arm edges and stitch

Piece two pieces of the tie together by placing the ends perpendicular to each other with the right sides together. Stitch corner to corner as shown below, and trim off the excess 1/4” from the seam. Repeat until all the pieces for the tie are attached for each apron.

Stitch together ties and trim

Press the seams open. Fold the tie in half lengthwise and press. Fold both edges into the center and press again.

Fold and press ties

Unfold one short end. Fold that short edge under 1/4” and press. Fold the sides back up and press one more time. Repeat on the opposite end. Stitch the length of the tie close to the double fold edge.

Stitch close to edge of ties

To insert the tie, attach a large safety pin to one end. Flip the apron to the back. Push the pin up through the bottom of the right hand casing. Continue until it comes out the top.

Feed tie into casing

Push the pin down through the left hand casing until it comes out the bottom.

Feed tie down through other casing

By making the tie this way, it’s very adjustable. Just pull down to adjust the neck to the right height, and either tie in back or wrap around to the front!

Papa and Kid Aprons

This next photo isn’t actual paint, yet, but a representation of what I’d like to do eventually. Little kid hand prints all over, maybe even add each year and she grows, and write her age on in permanent marker. Or I might just let the two of them get creative when she’s big enough!

Papa and Kid BBQ Aprons with handprints

Tell me that’s not a perfect gift for Papa!

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In sewing, crafts Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, diy, crafts, apron, aprons, bbq, Father's Day, gifts for him, gifts for her, Mother's Day, kitchen, kids, gifts for kids, sewing for beginners, easy to sew, easy sewing, June 2020
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June Bee - Months of Mugs Block of the Month

May 20, 2020 CraftyStaci
Months of Mugs Block of the Month - June Bee from Crafty Staci #quiltblock #blockofthemonth #calendarquilt

It’s Block of the Month day! I hope you enjoyed the flower in May. This is going to be such a fun year!

Months of Mugs Quilt by Crafty Staci

June is all about this sweet bee mug, perfect for tea with honey!

June Bee Mug Quilt Block

This is info I went over last month, but in case you just found this series, here are a few basic details:

  • I used tone-on-tone prints for this quilt. Solids would work well also. More active prints are an option, but I recommend avoiding anything directional.

  • If you plan to print out the pattern, I recommend a binder to store it.

  • This will work a little differently than my usual tutorials in that there will be PDFs to download, and there won’t be photos for each step.

  • Each month will have a coloring page included so you can plan your design, or just do some stress-relieving coloring.

  • This pattern has only been tested by me. I STRONGLY recommend reading through it before beginning (actually, that’s true for any pattern or tutorial). I have sewn each block, but should you find any errors or anything that’s unclear I’d love to hear from you.

There are four PDFs you’ll need to get started, and they apply to the entire quilt. Please read each of them. I’ll also link to these in each block post:

Pattern Overview and General Instructions

Fabric Requirements

Embroidery Designs

Mug Handle Assembly

If you downloaded these previously, no need to do so again. They are the same.

June Bee

You can download the June Bee instructions here. The June coloring page can be downloaded here.

June Bee Months of Mugs Coloring Page

I’d love to hear how your blocks are going so far! Tag me on social media @craftystaci. Share your buzz! 😂

You can see all of the blocks available in this series here.

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In crafts, sewing, quilts Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, quilting, quilts, quilt, quilt block, quilts 2020, block of the month, Month of Mugs, coffee cup, coffee mug, mugs, bee, bees
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Hexie Baby Quilt

May 13, 2020 CraftyStaci
Hexie Baby Quilt with no Y seams from Crafty Staci #hexiequilt #babyquilt #hexagons

There’s a running joke about soup in my family. I’ve never made anything but a giant pot of it, even when I try. I guess I just keep adding things until it reaches the rim. I’ve passed that particular skill on to my daughter. Same holds true for potato salad. There’s no such thing as a small one in my house. I’m starting to think I have the same skill with quilts.

I made a crib quilt for my granddaughter before she was born (you can see it toward the bottom of this post) and it’s twice as big as the crib mattress. I also made the Big Sky Bear quilt with the intention of snuggling with her under it, but it’s huge. We could fit both her parents and her papa under there with the two of us.

This is about my third try. When we were getting ready for our trip to Washington D.C. (which seems like a lifetime ago now) I realized she needed a small, portable quilt. I happened to have an acrylic template I’d never tried out, so I took my daughter to pick out fabrics.

Hexagon Trim Tool

She surprised me with the girly pink, yellow, and green line she chose, but I couldn’t have been happier with the way it turned out! The line is called Pink Lemonade by Tessie Fay for Windham Fabrics. As I write this, it’s available from several sellers on Etsy and from Fat Quarter Shop.

Selvage from hexie quilt fabrics

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here. 

The best part about this quilt is that while it has the hexagon look, it’s made using trapezoids and triangles, so no Y seams! The second best is that it fits perfectly in the bottom of a travel crib. That part was purely accidental.

Baby Hexie Quilt from craftystaci.com

To make this hexie baby quilt you’ll need:

  • Creative Grids Hexagon Trim Tool

  • 6 fat quarters for trapezoids and triangles

  • 1/4 yard fabric for sashing (I used the same as one of my fat quarters)

  • 1 yard fabric for backing

  • 1/3 yard fabric for binding

  • batting

Just for fun, here’s a coloring page you can use to plan your colors (click the pic for PDF)!

Hexie Quilt Coloring Page

When you’re cutting the trapezoids, you need to include the 1/4” seam allowance. That means you’re not using half of the hexagon template, but just a bit over. That was tough for me to remember, so I marked off the area I needed to use to cut with painter’s tape.

Marked off area to use on template

The part of the template you use to cut the triangles is marked off. You need two triangles that are opposite each other to fit into this quilt. Note that the seam allowance is only shown on the template for the right hand side, so be sure to add it when cutting the left hand triangles. The easiest way to cut these is to start with a 2 7/8” strip and cut the triangles from that.

Triangle to use on template

This is the quilt layout with corresponding numbers I used to identify each fabric print.

Layout with colors

Cut the following trapezoids:

  • Fabric 1 - cut 7

  • Fabric 2 - cut 5

  • Fabric 3 - cut 5

  • Fabric 4 - cut 5

  • Fabric 5 - cut 6

  • Fabric 6 - cut 7

Cut these right hand triangles:

  • Fabric 2 - cut 2

  • Fabric 3 - cut 2

  • Fabric 4 - cut 2

  • Fabric 5 - cut 1

Cut these left hand triangles:

  • Fabric 2 - cut 2

  • Fabric 3 - cut 2

  • Fabric 4 - cut 2

  • Fabric 5 - cut 1

Pieces cut for hexie quilt

Lay out all the pieces to match the graphic above.

Lay out quilt pieces before sewing

Sew the pieces together in vertical rows first. When you’re matching the triangles to trapezoids make sure to line up the straight edges and not the point, as shown below.

Sewing triangle to trapezoid

When you sew trapezoids to each other, the points should each stick out 1/4”, like they are in this photo. Be sure not to stretch the edges on any of your pieces as you sew.

Seam between trapezoids

Your rows should end up like this.

Pieces sewn into rows

Sew the rows to each other, lining up seams.

Cut the sashing:

  • for the sides, 1 1/2 x 37 1/2” - cut two

  • for the top and bottom, 2 x 30 1/2” - cut two

Sew the sashing to the sides first, then add the top and bottom.

Sashing sewn onto top

Layer the top with the batting and backing and quilt as desired. Cut the binding fabric into 2 1/2” strips and bind the quilt.

Hexie Baby Quilt on craftystaci.com

I used my favorite print for the back of this one.

Back of Hexie Baby Quilt

I’m excited I was finally able to make an appropriately small quilt for the kiddo, and I also can’t wait to see what else I can make with that hexagon tool!

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, quilts, quilts 2020, quilting, baby quilt, baby, babies, gifts to make, gifts for kids, diy, crafts
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Fabric Face Masks

April 29, 2020 CraftyStaci
Pattern and tips for making fast fabric face masks from Crafty Staci #facemasks #fabricmasks #facemaskswithties

I resisted publishing this tutorial. I told several people it wasn’t going to happen. There are already so many different designs and patterns out there – it makes my head spin. And who knows what the best version is? Which one is the most comfortable, or which protects the best?

Fabric Face Masks with Ties on craftystaci.com

However, a few things happened recently that changed my mind. I taught a mask-making class to a couple of friends out the window of my sewing room. I started getting sweet, thoughtful notes and messages from mask recipients in the mail. I had readers commenting and emailing me asking for my pattern. One of our UPS drivers left this message on our package, next to the basket of masks I leave in front of my garage:

Note from UPS driver

I do have a couple of tips I haven’t seen elsewhere that I feel make them quicker and easier to make, so I’m going to show you my version. I’m also going to be very thorough in my instructions and include lots of photos, in case you’re new to sewing. Because of that, this looks long, but these are really easy. I hope this helps some of you!

I have one big thing for you to remember, whether you’re making my pattern or one from someone else: 

Finished is better than perfect.

To make one of these masks, you’ll need at least two good quality cotton fabrics. I use two different prints so the wearer can easily identify which side touched their face if they have to remove their mask. You can add a third fabric if you’d like contrasting ties. That part is just for fun.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here. 

Fabric for face masks

I don’t prewash my fabrics. I’ve been making these for use in situations where it’s helpful if everyone’s mask is different for easy identification, so that means using lots of my scraps. Washing all of those really isn’t possible.

Because of that, I make these just a little larger than I would if my fabric had been washed to allow for shrinkage. It’s worked out well so far.

If you have a 6 1/2” wide ruler, I recommend adding a piece of painter’s tape at the 9 1/2” mark for easy cutting. I like this 6 1/2 x 12 1/2” Creative Grids ruler because all of their rulers have rough patches on the back, so they don’t slide easily. You can find it on Amazon and Connecting Threads. This is especially handy when you’re working with scraps. I can quickly throw it on top to see if the piece is large enough to work with.

I’ve made a few of these for little ones, and for kids under about 6 or 7 years old I cut the pieces 5 1/2 x 8” and the ties 2 x 34”.

Marked ruler for cutting masks

To cut one piece for the mask, lay the ruler on the fabric and cut around the three sides.

Cut three sides of face mask

Turn the ruler around and line the tape up with the short cut end. Cut the opposite end.

Turn ruler and cut fourth side of face mask

Cut a second piece from the other fabric in the same way. If you’re making several from the same fabrics (like I had to do for the Navy due to strict uniform codes), you can cut a strip of fabric 9 1/2” wide, then chop that into 6 1/2 x 9 1/2” pieces.

Cut one piece for each side of face mask

For the ties, cut two strips that are each 2” wide by the width of the fabric.

Cutting ties for face masks

Cut the selvages off the ties. I don’t measure, but I do stack the two together so they match each other. Some selvages are wider than others, so it will affect the length of the ties a bit, but not enough to matter. They should be 40-ish inches each, give or take a couple.

All pieces cut for face mask

Place the rectangles right sides together. You can pin them if it makes you more comfortable, but you’ll probably find it’s not necessary after you’ve made a few. Stitch around 1/4” from the edge, leaving about 2” unsewn on one long edge.

Stitch edge leaving an opening

To make it easier to know when to stop and pivot at the corners, check to see if your presser foot has a mark at 1/4”. If it doesn’t, you might try making one with tape, even on the throat plate of your machine. When I figured that out it really sped things up and made my seams more consistent.

Look for or create quarter inch mark on presser foot

Make sure you backstitch when you stop and start almost all the seams in this project. It adds strength and stability, and will keep your stitching from coming out while you’re working.

Turn the mask right side out. I don’t bother clipping the corners or pushing them out with a tool. I just use my fingers. They’re going to be covered by the tie anyway.

Push out corners

Before you lay the mask on the ironing board to press, run the iron over the cover for a couple of seconds. Lay the mask on top while it’s still hot. Roll the top edge between your fingers and the board to get the seam flat, then press. The steam coming off the board helps grip the bottom layer of fabric and makes this much easier. I figured it out on mask #127.

Roll out edges and press

Press the two short sides in the same way. When pressing the final long side, turn the opening in to the inside by 1/4”.

Turn edges of opening in one quarter inch

Top stitch close to the two long edges, but not the short ones. This is the one place you don’t really need to backstitch because those ends will be enclosed in the ties.

Stitch close to both long edges

You might have noticed I sort of cut a few corners on this project. None of them affect the quality of the mask at all, and they’re simply to expedite the process. The next one is the pleats. I don’t measure them. It took a lot on my part to let go of that, but now that I’ve made dozens, it doesn’t bother me at all. In fact, I think at this point my eyeballing is closer to accurate than when I started.

Fold the mask over on itself by about 3/8” in the center of one short side. Pin in place.

You’ll have to forgive my hands in the next few photos. Extra hand washing and the lack of giving a care about how my nails look right now came back to bite me.

Pin first pleat on face mask

Fold over a pleat on each side of the first, halfway between the middle and edge, all going in the same direction. Make sure all the pin heads are to the outside of the mask.

All pleats pinned in place on face mask

Do the same on the other short end, but reversed, so all the pleats fold down in the same direction.

Pleats pinned on both sides of face mask

If you have a bias tape tool, feed each tie through it while pressing. I use the 25mm, which is a little difficult to find on its own right now, but this set is a good price, and I’ve used most of the sizes for other projects. A stylus is handy for pushing the fabric in to start, but I found that sliding my inexpensive stork scissors into that top slit works just as well.

If you can’t get a bias tape maker, fold both long edges into the center and press.

Pull fabric through bias tape maker

Unfold one end. Turn the short edge to the inside 1/4”. I don’t press this yet, but the first few times you might want to, just to hold it in place.

Fold short end of tie under

Refold the long sides back up.

Fold sides of tie back over end

Fold the entire tie in half with the edges to the inside, starting at the end and pressing as you go.

Fold tie in half

Stop folding and pressing a few inches from the other end. Flip the tie around and fold that end as you did the first. Continue folding the tie in half and pressing until you reach the point where you stopped.

Repeat on the second tie.

Press length of tie in half

Lay the mask on a cutting mat or in front of a ruler to make it easy to find the center of one short end. I’ve been laying mine between 20 and 24”, so I know 22” is the middle. This is another place I don’t spend a lot of time getting it perfectly aligned.

Lay mask on mat or ruler

Fold one of the ties in half and put a pin at the center through one layer of fabric.

Find and mark center of tie

Unfold the tie opposite the pin. Place the tie right side down over the mask with the pin at the center. See the pin pointing up at the top edge of the tie? Make sure the raw edge of the tie is even with the edge of the mask.

Center tie on mask

Remove the marking pin. Holding the mask down with your finger so the pleat doesn’t pop out, remove the pin from the center pleat and reinsert it through the tie and all layers underneath.

Repin center pin through mask and tie

Smooth the sides of the tie down on either side against the mask and pin close to both edges. Repeat with the remaining tie on the other short end.

Pin tie to sides of mask

Stitch 1/4” from the edge through the tie and mask. Stop and start at the edges of the mask.

Stitch through tie over mask

You didn’t sew at the fold, which you can see in the photo below. It should be about 1/4” away from the stitching line.

Note the fold in the tie

Fold the tie over the edge of the mask at the fold, not the seam. This method is what’s going to keep your stitching even on both sides when you sew the tie down.

Fold tie up at end of mask

Flip the mask over and fold the tie again at its center fold so it covers the mask edge. Pin it in place through all layers. Because you folded on the pre-pressed folds, rather than the seam, the two edges of the tie should match on both sides. I used this method when I was making vendor aprons, and I literally made hundreds of them, so trust me on this one. It’s worth all that folding you did earlier.

Fold tie over back and pin

With the mask to the right, start stitching close to the double-folded edge on the end of the tie.

Stitch from end of tie

Continue stitching near the edge of the tie over the mask.

Continue stitching tie over mask

Keep going until you reach the other end of the tie. Repeat the stitching on the other tie.

Tie stitched

Wash the mask before using. I’ve put these through my washer and dryer with no issues, but your mileage may vary. If your ties tangle within your machine, try washing them inside a lingerie bag.

Flowered face mask with ties from Crafty Staci

I tried out cord stoppers on my own mask, and they actually work really well. It takes a lot of effort to get them on because it’s tight stuffing all that fabric through, but I accidentally washed them and they came out okay, so I think I’ll just leave them on. I can’t say how that will work out long term though.

Fabric face mask with cord stoppers on ties on Crafty Staci

If you don’t want to make your own, there are lots of people selling these now, including my friends at Chasin’ Tail and LaCartera Designs.

Stay safe and healthy, crafty makers, both mentally and physically!

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, diy, masks, fabric masks, face masks, accessories
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Ruffled Apron

April 22, 2020 CraftyStaci
Ruffled Apron from Crafty Staci #apronpattern #giftstomakeformom #apronsewing

I was recent contacted by a reader to clear up some confusion on an apron tutorial I wrote eight years ago. When I looked at it, I was a little confused myself. That’s not good. I decided then and there it was time to revisit that one, simplify it a bit, and clear up the instructions.

This is the original, modeled by my lovely teen daughter (who is now a married mom!):

Spring Apron Pattern from craftystaci.com

The basics of the apron are the same as the original, but I did make some minor changes. I got rid of the angled ends on all the ties, and deleted some pattern pieces that could just be cut by size. I actually had a lot of fun making this again!

Ruffled Apron from craftystaci.com

This would make a great gift for Mother’s Day, with so many of us getting more familiar with our kitchens right now! To make this ruffled apron you’ll need:

  • 1 2/3 yards of the main cotton fabric (for skirt, top, and waist ties)

  • 1 1/2 yards of the contrast cotton fabric (ruffle, waistband, neck tie, and pockets)

  • this pattern (it’s a large one, and will need to be pieced together using the marks on each piece) for the top, skirt, waistband, and pockets

Materials needed for apron

The fabric quantities allow for some shrinkage when washed. You can either wash the fabrics before beginning so your apron won’t shrink, or just know it’s going to be a little smaller after that first trip through the laundry.

Fold the main fabric with the selvages together. Cut one top and one skirt on the fold as shown. Mark the dots on the skirt for pocket placement and near the bottom edge. Make sure to make each mark on each side of the skirt. You’ll also need a mark at the center of the top and bottom edge of the skirt and bottom center edge of the top.

Cut out top and skirt

Also from the main fabric, cut two pieces that are 7” by the width of the fabric for the waist ties. Trim off the selvages. The piece shown here at the left is the scrap.

Cut waist ties

Fold the accent fabric with the top overlapping the bottom by 16”. Cut two waistbands. Mark the black dot as indicated on the pattern and the center of the waistband on the edge.

Cut waistband

Cut two pieces on the fold that are 3 x 30” for the neck tie.

Cut neck ties

Cut four pieces on the fold that are 6 x 30” for the ruffle.

Cut ruffles

Cut two pockets by cutting around the pattern piece once on folded fabric. This ensures they’re opposite each other.

Cut pockets

Use a 1/2” seam allowance for all stitching except where you’re specifically directed otherwise. Most things I sew at 1/4”, so I put a piece of blue painter’s tape on my machine at the 1/2” mark to remind myself.

Fold the pockets with right sides together. Stitch around the edge, leaving 1 1/2” open on one side for turning. Trim the seam to 1/4”. Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening. Repeat with the second pocket.

Turn pockets right side out

Center the top corners of the pockets between the marks on the skirt. Pin in place and stitch close to the edge, leaving the top of the pocket open.

Sew pockets on skirt

Turn the side edges of the top under 1/2”, then turn the edge to the inside of that fold to create a 1/4” rolled seam. Press. Trim off the ends of the seam even with the lower edge of the top. Stitch down the center of the hem.

Hem sides of top

Fold the upper edge of the top under 1 1/2”. Press. Fold the raw edge under 1/4” to the inside. Stitch near the inner fold to create a casing at the neck edge.

Fold down upper edge

Because this is cut at an angle, the sides do not match, and should look like this:

Stitch down upper edge of top

Pin one waistband to the lower edge of the top with right sides together, matching the tip of the lower edge of the top to the dot on the waistband and matching the centers. Stitch, easing in the fullness of the waistband by placing light pressure on the edge of the top as you sew.

Sew top to waistband

Lay the waistband and top right side up. Pin the upper edge of the skirt to the raw edge of the waistband with right sides together, matching centers and edges. Stitch.

Sew skirt to waistband

Fold one waist tie lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch, leaving one short end open. Clip corners. Turn right side out. Press. Repeat with remaining waist tie.

Stitch and turn waist ties

Match the raw end of one waist tie to the side edge of the waistband. The edge of the tie should be next to the skirt seam and right sides together. Stitch 1/2” from the side. Repeat on the opposite side of the waistband with the second tie.

Sew waist ties to waistband

Fold the short ends of the remaining waistband piece under 1/2”and press.

Fold ends of second waistband under

Fold the top down over the skirt with right sides together.

Fold top down over skirt

With the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the the top, pin the second waistband to the first along the upper edge, sandwiching the top between, and matching the folded edge to the stitching line on the sides where the waist ties were attached. Stitch 1/2” from the edge. Open out the waistbands and press the seam toward the top.

Stitch second waistband to first

Press both waistbands down toward the skirt.

Fold waistband down

Sew the short ends of all ruffle pieces to each other with right sides together to create one long strip. Trim the seams to 1/4” and zigzag stitch over the edges of the seams to finish. Press the seams to one side.

Stitch ends of ruffle together

Turn one long edge of the ruffle under 1/2” and then turn the raw edge to the inside for a 1/4” rolled hem. Stitch down the middle of the hem. Do the same on both short ends.

Hem ruffle ends

Stitch a long basting stitch 5/8” from the raw edge of the ruffle, then again midway between that stitching and the edge, leaving long threads on at the beginning and end of each row. Stop and restart on either side of each ruffle seam.

Pin the ruffle to the bottom edge of the skirt with right sides and raw edges together, matching the center of the skirt to the center seam on the ruffle. Match the other two ruffle seams to the dots on the skirt. The ends of the ruffle should be next to the waistband seams.

Pin ruffle to skirt

Gather each section of the ruffle by tying the long threads on one end and pulling the threads gently from the other. Pulling both threads together cuts down on the chance they’ll break. Pull until the ruffle size matches the skirt edge. Even out the gathers and pin in place.

Gather ruffle

Stitch the ruffle in place. Make sure not to catch the waistband in the stitching. Remove the basting threads. Zigzag stitch over the edge of the seam. Press the seam up toward the skirt. Top stitch 3/8” from the seam on the skirt.

Topstitch near ruffle

Turn the remaining raw upper edge of the back waistband under 1/2” and press. Press the waist tie seams toward the waistband.

Press seams to inside of waistband

Fold the back waistband down over the front waistband with wrong sides together and pin. Make sure all the raw edges from the waist ties are inside.

Top stitch around the edge of the waistband from the front, or hand stitch it in place from the back.

Topstitch around edge of waistband.JPG

Stitch the short ends of the neck tie with right sides together to create one long piece. Press the seam open. Fold one short end under 1/4” and press.

Fold the tie lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch, leaving the end with the 1/4” turned under open. Turn right side out through that opening. Press. Stitch the opening closed by hand or top stitch both short ends.

Press neck tie

Feed the neck tie through the casing at the upper edge of the top.

Feed neck tie into top

Make sure the tie is flat and centered. Stitch through the casing at the center to hold the neck tie in place.

Stitch through top and neck tie

Push the side of the casing toward the center while holding the ties to gather it.

Gather top on neck tie

I love that this apron is girly, a little retro, but still very functional!

Ruffled Apron on Crafty Staci

And I’m pretty sure the back is my favorite part!

Back of Ruffled Apron from Crafty Staci

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, diy, apron, aprons, gifts for her, gifts to make, Mother's Day, wearables
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May Flower - Months of Mugs Block of the Month

April 15, 2020 CraftyStaci
Months of Mugs Block of the Month - May Flower from Crafty Staci #quiltblock #blockofthemonth #calendarquilt

I think we can all agree that the world is a little crazy right now, right? I’ve been staying home and making masks, just like everyone else. I want to do whatever I can to make it better.

I started designing this mug quilt last fall. My intention was to release it as a pattern in my shop, and maybe organize a block of the month event around that. In the spirit of providing something positive in the middle of this uncertainty, I changed my mind.

Months of Mugs Quilt by Crafty Staci

I stuck with the block of the month idea, but instead of adding the pattern to my shop, I’m giving it away. I won’t say this one will never end up as a pattern for sale, but for this next year, it’s a freebie. I hope it brings you a little joy!

May Flower Block of the Month

Because this is the first month, there’s a few things I need to go over.

  • I used tone-on-tone prints for this quilt. Solids would work well also. More active prints are an option, but I recommend avoiding anything directional.

  • If you plan to print out the pattern, I recommend a binder to store it.

  • This will work a little differently than my usual tutorials in that there will be PDFs to download, and there won’t be photos for each step.

  • Each month will have a coloring page included so you can plan your design, or just do some stress-relieving coloring.

  • This pattern has only been tested by me. I STRONGLY recommend reading through it before beginning (actually, that’s true for any pattern or tutorial). I have sewn each block, but should you find any errors or anything that’s unclear I’d love to hear from you.

There are four PDFs you’ll need to get started, and they apply to the entire quilt. Please read each of them. I’ll also link to these in each block post:

Pattern Overview and General Instructions

Fabric Requirements

Embroidery Designs

Mug Handle Assembly

When I’m making something seasonal, I like to work a little ahead so I’m not making a Christmas design in January, or an Easter bunny after he’s back in hibernation. Since this is April, we’re going to start with the purple flower that represents May.

May Flower from Months of Mugs Quilt by Crafty Staci

You can download the May Flower instructions here. The May coloring page can be downloaded here.

May Flower Months of Mugs Coloring Page

I’m so excited to get started on this with you! I’ve loved this quilt more with each step, and I hope you will too. Maybe by the time we reach the final block, the world will look a little more normal, but in the meantime I’ll be happy to meet you here every month to make something fun!

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In crafts, sewing, quilts Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, quilting, quilts, quilt, quilt block, quilts 2020, block of the month, Month of Mugs, coffee cup, coffee mug, mugs
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Neighborhood Bear

April 1, 2020 CraftyStaci
Neighborhood Bear from Crafty Staci - make one to put in your window so your neighborhood can play I'm Going on a Bear Hunt! #windowbear #imgoingonabearhunt #stuffedbear #bearpattern

I love when something happy and good pops up in all the craziness we’re dealing with right now. One of the things that has brought a smile to my face recently is Going on a Bear Hunt. If this one hasn’t crossed your news feed yet, the idea is that residents and businesses place a bear in their window and kids and their parents (safely in cars or with appropriate distance) go on a “Bear Hunt” to spot as many as they can.

My understanding is that the whole thing was inspired by this book by Michael Rosen. The funny thing is, I remember my teachers telling this story when I was in grade school. A LONG time ago. There was some choreography involved, and I remember it was always fun. I love that someone translated all of that to this activity for our cooped-up cubs.

You don’t need much to make this stuffed bear, and many of the things I used are very flexible. Read to the end for substitutions for almost everything.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here. 

To make Neighborhood Bear as I did, you’ll need:

  • cotton fabric (a fat quarter is plenty)

  • felt

  • Wonder Under or other fusible transfer web

  • embroidery thread

  • fiber fill

  • this template, printed and pieced together (use the heart as your overlap guide)

Supplies for window bear

Cut two bears from fabric by folding it with wrong sides together. The two bears should be opposites of each other.

Bear bodies

Trace the muzzle (the big circle on its face), eyes, nose, and heart from the template onto the paper side of the Wonder Under. Cut the pieces out loosely and fuse to the felt. Cut out along the drawn lines. Don’t peel the paper off the back yet.

Bear bits

Transfer the mouth from the template to the muzzle. Now you can remove the paper from all the felt pieces. Stitch the mouth using a backstitch with embroidery thread.

Bear mouth

Fuse the muzzle, nose, eyes, and heart to one bear body.

Fuse bits to bear body

Stitch all the felt bits in place. I just happened to be sitting down to watch T.V. and had plenty of time, so I used a blanket stitch with embroidery thread, but you don’t have to get that fancy. You can even stitch them by machine if you’d like. Or don’t stitch them at all if he’s not going to get thrown around.

Bits stitched to bear body

Lay that bear face up. Pin the other bear on top, right side down. Stitch around 1/4” from the edge, leaving 3” unsewn at the bottom edge for turning. Pivot at all corners with the needle down, and take your time around the curves.

Two bodies sewn together

Clip in at each corner with scissors, almost to the stitching, but make sure you don’t accidentally clip it.

Clip corners on bear body

Turn the bear right side out through the opening. Push out the arms, legs, and ears with something pointy.

The reason the legs stick out to the sides like they do is to help stabilize the bear on the sides when it’s standing in the window. Also, one hand is sticking upward because it’s waving!

Turn bear right side out

Stuff with fiber fill until you’re happy with its fullness.

Stuff bear through opening

Hand stitch the opening closed. The bear should be about 9 1/2” tall.

Stitch opening closed

Your Neighborhood Bear is finished!

Neighborhood Bear from craftystaci.com

Now, about those substitutions:

  • use buttons for the eyes and nose

  • draw the mouth on with a Sharpie

  • piece together fabrics to create patchwork before cutting out bears

  • attach the felt pieces with glue

  • pin the felt in place and stitch instead of using Wonder Under

  • No fiber fill? Stuff with plastic bags, newspaper…get creative!

  • use an old shirt instead of fabric for the body. Bonus if it has buttons to use for the face!

  • cut the heart out of regular fabric - if it will sit in the window you don’t need to worry about it fraying

Prop it up in a window and join the hunt!

Neighborhood Bear in window

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, crafts, kids, gifts for kids, gifts to make, bear, stuffed animals
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Sewing from your Scrap Stash

March 25, 2020 CraftyStaci
Sewing from your Scrap Stash on Crafty Staci #scrapbusters #sewingwithscraps #simplesewing

How are you doing? The current situation has been rough on everyone, but I hope you’re getting in some sewing and crafting time.

For a variety of reasons, I was away from my sewing room for too long, and when I walked back in yesterday it was a relief. The brightness and inspiration I find in there almost always makes me feel better. All I did was cut pieces for a mystery quilt, but that was enough to settle my brain a little. I can’t control what’s going on in the rest of the world, but what happens in that room is all mine.

Since restocking fabric might not be an option for everyone right now, I searched through my projects to see what could be made with scraps. I also tried to confine these to things that can be made without unusual hardware or supplies. I hope you find something here that inspires you!

Embellished Kitchen Towels

Fabric Embellished Kitchen Towels

Curvy Fabric Gift Card Holder

Curvy Gift Card Holders on Crafty Staci

Four Patch Drink Coasters

4 Patch Coasters from Crafty Staci

Fabric Pentagon Bowl

Fabric Pentagon Bowl from Crafty Staci

Fabric Cuff Bracelet

Fabric Cuff Bracelet on Crafty Staci

Flip Flop Covers with Ruffles or Flip Flop Covers with Flowers

Flip Flop Covers from Crafty Staci

Tiny Fabric Easter Basket

Tiny Fabric Easter Basket from Crafty Staci

French Braid Mug Mat

French Braid Mug Mat - Crafty Staci

Quick Fabric Corner Bookmarks

Fabric Corner Bookmarks - Crafty Staci

Quiet Book of Colors

Quiet Book of Colors - Crafty Staci

Mickey and Minnie Coffee Cozies

Mickey and Minnie Coffee Cozies from Crafty Staci

Quilt-As-You-Go Table Runner

Quilt-As-You-Go Tablerunner from Crafty Staci

Patchwork Heart Pincushion

Patchwork Heart Pincushion from Crafty Staci

Fabric Shoelaces - see an alternative to the tips near the end of the post

Fabric Shoelaces from Crafty Staci

Pennant Banner Coffee Cozy

Pennant Banner Coffee Cozy from Crafty Staci

Wonder Woman Mug Mat

Wonder Woman Mug Mat from Crafty Staci

Buffalo Check Mug Mat

Buffalo Mug Mat from Crafty Staci

Bargello Placemats

Bargello Placemats from Crafty Staci

Pinwheel Square Mini Quilt

Pinwheel Square Mini Quilt on CraftyStaci

Oval Mug Mat

Oval Mug Mat from Crafty Staci

Hair Scrunchies

Hair Scrunchies from Crafty Staci

Hexagon Mug Mat

Hexagon Mug Mat

Crumb Quilt Mug Mat

Crumb Quilt Mug Mat from Crafty Staci

Fabric Pinwheels

Patriotic Pinwheels from Crafty Staci

If that’s not enough to keep you busy, check out all of my other sewing tutorials! Stay healthy my friends!

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, diy, scrap busters, simple sewing, sewing for beginners, sewing tutorial, crafts
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Fabric Baskets

March 18, 2020 CraftyStaci
Large and small fabric baskets from Crafty Staci #fabricbasket #diybasket #basketsewing #eastercrafts

I love a project that accidentally leads to something else. I don’t know what it says about me that I have so many that have gone that way, but there it is. In this case, the big basket was the goal. The little basket was a happy accident.

The large basket measures about 12” long, 8” wide, and 12” tall. The small basket measures 5” long, 3” wide, and 5” tall. My baby granddaughter can sit in the big one. Ask me how I know. 😉

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here. 

To make these fabric baskets you’ll need:

  • Flex Foam single-side fusible stabilizer

  • 1/2 yard or two fat quarters for outside of basket

  • 1/2 yard or two fat quarters for lining

  • 8 x 4 1/2” fabric for handle

  • this pattern template for the large basket (there is no template for the small basket)

Supplies for basket

The pattern is larger than one sheet of paper, so you’ll need to assemble this one. I added marks that should make it easier to line the pages up.

Basket template pieced together

Cut the following for the large basket:

  • 2 basket template from fabric for the outside

  • 2 basket template from fabric for the lining

  • 2 basket template from Flex Foam

  • 8 x 4 1/2” from fabric for handle

  • 7 x 3 1/2 from Flex Foam for handle

Pieces cut for basket

Fuse the Flex Foam to the wrong side of the outer basket pieces. Fuse the Flex Foam to centered on the wrong side of the handle.

Foam applied to upper handle

Clip the two outer basket pieces right sides together. Stitch the straight sides and across the bottom with a 1/4” seam (used throughout this project).

Sides sewn on basket

Flatten one lower corner so the seams are right sides together. Draw a line perpendicular to the corner, 4 1/4” from the very tip. The line should measure 8” long. Pin the layers together.

Draw line across corner

Stitch along the line. Repeat on the opposite corner.

Corners sewn

Trim off each corner 1/4” from the seam. Don’t throw those corners away! Set them aside and I’ll show you what happens to them in a bit.

Corners trimmed

Repeat the entire process with the lining pieces, except leave 6” unstitched in the seam on the bottom edge.

Lining sewn

Turn the lining right side out. Don’t bother poking out the corners. Place the lining inside the basket so they’re right sides together. Pin the raw edges together. Stitch from the upper side edge of the handle end to the other. Don’t stitch across the top of the handle ends. Repeat on the opposite side.

Lining sewn into bag

Turn the handle ends right side out first by pinning a safety pin into the seam and pushing it through tot the bottom.

Pushing safety pin into handle end

Turn the remaining basket right side out through the opening. Push out the outer corners.

Basket turned right side out

Hand stitch the opening closed at the bottom of the lining.

Opening at bottom sewn

I tried pressing the seam between the outside and lining in order to flatten it out for stitching, but with the foam in there that proved pretty ineffective. Instead, roll the seam between your fingers until the lining is fully inside and clip or pin in the place.

Edge prepared for topstitching

Topstitch around close to the edge. Stitch across the top near the raw edges of the handle ends.

Upper edge of basket finished

Measure 4” from the side seam to the corner. Pinch the corner at the top and clip or pin. Stitch across the corner, about 1/4” from the point, through all layers. Repeat on the other three corners.

Upper corners pinched and sewn

Fold the long edges of the handle to the wrong side over the edge of the foam. Press.

Fold under long edges of handle

Fold the handle with right sides together width wise (short ends together), keeping the long edges folded. Stitch 1/4” from the short edges.

Short ends of handle sewn

Turn right side out. Center the seam and press.

Handle pressed

Tuck the handle ends inside the handle by 1 1/4” on each side. Clip or pin. Stitch close to the ends of the handle.

Both ends of handle sewn

Add additional rows of stitching on handle as desired.

Additional stitching on handle

The large basket is finished. So what about that little one? Grab those pieces you clipped off the corners of the outer basket and lining. I just couldn’t bring myself to toss them.

If you’re just making the small basket, these are 4 1/4” squares, sewn right sides together on two sides, and there’s Flex Foam applied to the outer pieces.

Leftover pieces from basket

You’ll also need a 4 x 8” piece of fabric from one of the scraps for the handle.

Pin the outside pieces with right sides together on one edge. Sew together. Use the same flatten-draw-sew technique to box the corners that we used on the large bag, drawing the 2 1/2” line 1 1/2” from the tip.

Do the same with the lining, except leave 3” open (not on the seam) in the first step. Turn the lining right side out.

Fold the handle wrong sides together and press. Fold the edges into the fold and press again. Stitch near both long edges.

Mini basket pieces sewn

Pin the handle inside the basket with the ends centered over the front and back seams.

Handle pinned in place

Pin the lining inside the basket on top of the handle with the edges even.

Lining pinned in place

Stitch along the edge. It’s easier to do that from the inside of the bag due to its small size. Turn the basket right side out through the opening in the lining.

Turned right side out

Hand stitch the opening in the lining closed.

Push the lining into the basket. You can either roll the seams like we did on the large basket so it’s completely inside, or leave about 1/4” to the outside like I did here. Either way, topstitch near the seam.

Pinch and stitch the corners like the large bag, or leave them as-is for a more rounded look.

Upper edge of mini basket finished

Large or small, now all your basket needs are covered!

Large and small fabric baskets on craftystaci.com

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, crafts, Easter, basket, bag, bags, diy, home decor, organization, fabric basket
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End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

March 4, 2020 CraftyStaci
End of the Rainbow Mug Mat from Crafty Staci #mugmat #stpatricksdaycraft #rainbowcraft

The calendar flipped to March and suddenly I was in the mood to make something for St. Patrick’s Day. Of course I immediately thought of green, but a little leprechaun whispered in my ear, and ended up with this End of the Rainbow Mug Mat!

To make this you’ll need:

  • fabric scraps in rainbow colors

  • black or grey fabric for the pot

  • fabric for the back

  • fusible fleece

  • gold embroidery thread

  • these pattern templates

Supplies for End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Cut out one of the pot and each of the rainbow pieces.

Pieces cut out for End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Transfer the embroidery design to the pot.

I don’t mind the black pot here, but next time I’ll probably go with grey or even the metallic gold I have in my stash. The reason I used the black was that I really wanted to try out my new white pen.

I ordered some Sakura Gelly Roll pens in the Fine size, and they’re amazing! You can just trace the design over a light box, using a light touch, and it comes out very crisp and clear. I’ve been looking for a good solution for embroidering on dark fabric, and this is it.

Embroidery transfer for End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

It doesn’t iron away, and doesn’t smudge like chalk. This is just to show you how unaffected it was by my hands rubbing over it while I stitched.

Midway through embroidery on End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Anyway, back to the project. Embroider the Lucky design using a backstitch. I used a thick size 8 perle cotton, but something smaller would work too.

Embroidery completed on End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Stitch the rainbow strips together in order with 1/4” seams (used throughout this project). Press the seams toward the green.

Lay the rainbow right side down over the the pot, which should be right side up. The short edge of the rainbow should be centered and even with the upper edge of the pot. Stitch together.

Rainbow pinned to pot for End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Press the seam toward the rainbow. Trim the upper edge to even up if necessary.

Trim upper edge of End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Use the assembled pot and rainbow as a template to cut the backing. Make sure to place it right side down on the fabric so they’re opposite each other.

Place the backing pot on the fleece right side up, with the fusible side of the fleece facing up as well. Cut out.

Inside and back cut out for End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Fuse the fleece to the backing pot. Lay out, right side of the fabric up. Place the front pot over the top, right side down.

Stitch around, pivoting at the corners. Leave 2” open at the bottom edge. Your stitching line should look roughly like this:

Stitching line to sew front to back

Clip off the outer corners and clip into the inner corners. Don’t be afraid to clip a little extra from the seams near the corners so they’ll be sharper.

Trim corners on End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Turn right side out through the opening. Push the edges and corners out with something pointy. Press, turning in the opening.

Press and turn in opening on End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Topstitch near the edge of the rainbow with white or other color thread. Switch to black to topstitch the pot.

Topstitch End of the Rainbow Mug Mat

Don’t you feel luckier just looking at this? Imagine how you’ll feel when your mug is sitting on it!

If you want to go all in on the rainbow theme, make yourself this matching coffee cozy!

End of the Rainbow Mug Mat from Crafty Staci

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In crafts, sewing Tags sewing 2020 Jan-Jun, mug rug, mug mat, St. Patrick's Day, scrap busters, rainbow, rainbows, crafts, diy
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Crinkle Bee Baby Toy

February 26, 2020 CraftyStaci
Crinkle Bee Baby Toy from Crafty Staci #babytoy #toyforbaby #bumblebee #toybee

My granddaughter, at six months old, has an obsession with all things that make a funny noise. Crinkly sounds are a particular favorite. She’s also developing her ability to grab things, and in an effort to make that something besides my hair, I decided she needed a bee buddy. It was definitely a hit.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this crinkle bee baby toy you’ll need:

  • food packaging to use for crinkle material (cereal bag, chocolate chips, etc.)

  • yellow cotton fabric

  • black-on-black cotton fabric

  • white or grey Cuddle or flannel fabric

  • white cotton fabric

  • solid black cotton fabric

  • black and white cotton print fabric

  • black embroidery thread

  • white embroidery thread

  • fusible interfacing

  • pattern templates, printed and cut out

To start, cut:

  • 2 - white fabric eyes

  • 2 - interfacing eyes

  • 2 - solid black fabric irises

  • 2 - interfacing irises

  • 4 - Cuddle or flannel wings

  • 2 - black and white fabric stingers

  • 2 - 2 x 2” black and white fabric antennae

  • 4 - 1 1/2 x 6” yellow fabric stripes

  • 4 - 1 1/2 x 6” black-on-black fabric stripes

  • 2 - 4 x 6” yellow fabric stripes

  • 1 - 1 1/2 x 2” yellow fabric loop

First set of pieces cut

All seams are 1/4” unless noted otherwise.

Beginning with the largest yellow piece at the top, sew the yellow and black stripes into two sets as shown. Press the seams toward the black.

Sew yellow and black rows together

Use the oval pattern template to cut two bee bodies.

Front and back bee bodies

Stitch the two wings with right sides together, leaving about 1 1/2” open on one side. Turn right side out. Push out the seams with something pointy. Topstitch near the edge.

Bee wings sewn

Stitch the two stinger pieces with right sides together, leaving the top edge open. Turn right side out. Press.

Before you decide the stinger is too small, know that my granddaughter noticed it right away on the finished product, and spent lots of time tugging on it.

Bee stinger sewn

Fold one of the antenna with wrong sides together. Press. Fold both edges into the center and press again. Unfold everything and hold with the folds vertical. Fold the upper edge to the inside 1/4” and press. Refold the previous folds and press one more time.

Stitch close to the long sides. Repeat with the second antenna.

bee antennae sewn

Follow the same process to fold the yellow loop, but don’t fold the one edge under 1/4”. Stitch long sides.

Hanging loop sewn

Stitch the interfacing eyes and irises to their matching fabric pieces with the fusible side facing the right side of the fabric.

Interfacing sewn to eyes

Trim the seam to just over 1/8”. Carefully cut a slit in the center of the interfacing only. Turn right side out through that opening.

I’ll be honest here, those little irises are a pain in the neck to turn, but I had two things in mind here: babies love faces and this toy needs to be safe. I wanted to be able to sew them down securely. If you’d rather use a different method, I wouldn’t blame you, just make sure it’s baby-friendly.

Transfer the mouth embroidery design to the bee face. These pens are my favorite way to do that. Stitch the mouth using the black embroidery thread and a back stitch.

Bee mouth stitched

Place the white eyes on the face (remember you’ll still need to sew a 1/4” seam around the edge later) and press in place. Stitch around close to the edge.

White eyes sewn on

Place the black irises where you’d like on top of the white eyes. I auditioned them in every possible position before deciding. Press in place. Stitch around close to the edge. Add a knot using the white embroidery thread to each iris to give the eyes a little reflection and life.

You can see how wonky the edges of these eyes are, especially the irises, but the baby doesn’t care, so neither do I.

Irises sewn onto eyes

Lay out the bee, face up. Fold the yellow loop in half. Pin it at the center top of the head with the loop to the inside. Pin the antennae about 1” down on each side with raw edges even.

Stitch over each about 1/8” from the edge.

Hanging loop and antennae tacked to face

Place the stinger at the center on the bottom, with the stinger to the inside. Stitch 1/8” from the edge.

Stinger tacked to bee body

Place the wings on both sides, about 2 1/2” down from the top with the wings to the inside. Stitch 1/8” from the edge. The points will stick out as shown below.

Wings tacked to bee body

Ordinarily I would have pinned all of these pieces along with the back and sew everything at once, but this adds an additional row of stitching, making this even more safe.

Lay the bee back over the face with right sides together. Pin or hold together with clips. With the thickness of the wings inside, I found the clips easier.

Layers secured

Stitch 1/4” from the edge, leaving about 3” open on one side.

Turn right side out. Press, turning in the open edge 1/4”.

Turned right side out and pressed

Slide the crinkle layer in through the opening.

Slide crinkle layer inside

Flatten the plastic as much as possible inside. It doesn’t need to be perfect. It’s larger than the space inside at this point, but that’s fine.

Stitch around near the outer edge of the bee. If you’re concerned that enough of the plastic wasn’t caught in that stitching, sew a couple of horizontal rows within the yellow strips.

You can machine wash your bee, but I’d hang it to dry, and don’t iron it. Her dad was glad to see the loop at the top, because they’ll be able to hang it from some of her floor-time toys.

Bumble Bee Crinkle Baby Toy from Crafty Staci

Handing this to my grandbaby was extremely satisfying. She grabbed the antennae, rubbed the soft wings, and pulled on the stinger. She loves the eyes, and the crinkly noise. Her dad covered her face with it, and she giggled hard when he pulled it away. It was worth it all for that! 😍

Charli and her Bee Crinkle Toy