Love Note Mini Quilt

January 27, 2021 CraftyStaci

My husband repainted almost the entire inside of our house recently. We’ve always had pretty bold colors, but we decided to go all white. I was a little worried I’d find it boring, but I actually love it. When you put something against a colorful wall it kind of blends in, but on a white wall it really stands out. Not to mention the rooms are SO much brighter!

As I was putting things back in place, I realized I didn’t have a Valentine quilt to hang on my little stand. Since mini quilts, to include mug mats, are my favorite thing to make, I took advantage of the opportunity to do something about it.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy, click here.

To make this Love Note Mini Quilt you’ll need:

cotton fabric in 2 - 3 colors and/or prints, one of those white for the envelope
thin cotton or wool batting
button (any size - it’s purely decorative)

Cut the following:

4 1/2 x 4 1/2” - 2

3 1/2 x 4 1/2” - 2

pink

4 1/2 x 4 1/2” - 4

white (envelope)

4 1/2 x 6 1/2” - 1 (inside)

6 1/2 x 8” - 1 (pocket)

5 x 5” - 1 (flap)

backing (your choice of fabric, I used the print)

12 1/2 x 12 1/2” - 1

batting

12 1/2 x 12 1/2” - 1

binding (again, your choice, I used the white)

2 1/2 x 60” - 1

Stitch one pink 4 1/2” square, one print, and a second pink together to create the top horizontal row.

Repeat the same for the bottom row.

Fold the white 6 1/2 x 8” in half with wrong sides together and 6 1/2” edges touching. Press the fold. Place it on the right side of the white 4 1/2 x 6 1/2” piece with the edges even at the bottom. The fold should be 1/2” from the top.

Pin one print 3 1/2 x 4 1/2” to the right hand edge with right sides together. Stitch through all layers 1/4” from the edge.

Pin right side over pocket on Love Note Mini Quilt

Fold the print piece out and press the seam. Repeat with the remaining 3 1/2 x 4 1/2” print on the left.

Sew on left side of Love Note Mini Quilt

Sew the top and middle rows together.

Sew top and middle rows together on Love Note Mini Quilt

Add the bottom row. That should close up the edges of the center pocket (except the top, of course).

Sew on bottom row of Love Note Mini Quilt

Fold the 5 x 5” white square diagonally with right sides together. Stitch 1/4” from the raw edges, leaving about 1 1/2” open on one straight side for turning.

Fold flap diagonally for Love Note Mini Quilt

Clip the corners. Turn right side out through the opening. Press, turning in the opening. Hand stitch the opening closed or topstitch close to the two shorter edges. I added topstitching near the sides and bottom of the pocket to match.

Topstitched flap for Love Note Mini Quilt

Lay the flap over the pocket so it’s centered and the upper edge is against the seam. Stitch very close to the top edge of the flap. Make sure you have it high enough so you don’t stitch the pocket closed.

Layer the backing with right side down, the batting, and the top with the right side up. Pin and quilt as desired. I just went with a simple X pattern. Again, remember not to quilt your pocket closed.

Fold the binding in half with wrong sides together and press. Bind the quilt using your favorite method. Krista Moser shows how I sew my ends together (I use the alternate steps near the bottom, and how I miter the corners.

Sew the button onto the envelope flap and you’re done!

Sew button on flap on Love Note Mini Quilt

This is perfect for my stand (I sewed a couple of ties to the back), and it looks great against my white wall, but I think it would be equally cute as a pillow.

Valentine Love Note Mini Quilt Tutorial from Crafty Staci

Don’t forget to tell everyone else in the house that they’re welcome to leave you a love note inside!

Love Note Mini Quilt with Valentine inside

Cold Cup Cozy with Straw Sleeve

July 8, 2020 CraftyStaci

I think the fact that I’ve made hundreds of coffee cozies probably tells you how I feel about reducing waste where I can. Unfortunately for me, my favorite iced coffee shop treat needs a good stir before it’s ready to drink, so I need a straw to get started.

I’ve been trying to keep a reusable straw with me, and I knew there had to be a good way to combine that with my fabric coffee cozy. If I figure out a way to get a face mask in there so I don’t forget it either I’ll have hit the trifecta.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy click here.

To make this cold cup cozy you’ll need:

cotton fabric
Insul-Bright
elastic cord (or hair tie) cut 3” long
5/8 - 1” button
this pattern template, printed, taped together, and cut out

Cut one cozy from fabric and one from Insul-Bright using the template. Flip the template over to cut the second for the back. Cut a strip 2 x 21” for the straw sleeve.

Fold the short ends of the 21” strip under 1/4” and press. Fold the entire strip in half lengthwise with right sides together. Match up those short folded ends. Stitch 1/4” from both long ends. Leave the short end open.

Turn right side out and press.

Pin to the right side of the back cozy piece, 1/2” from the upper edge and each side. Lay a ruler next to the strip to make sure it isn’t curved. Pin in place.

Stitch the sleeve down close to both long edges and across the double-fold end. Leave the other end open.

Stitch or tie the ends of the elastic together to create a loop.

Layer the Insul-Bright, cozy front (right side up), and the elastic loop centered on the right-hand end.

Top with the back cozy, right side down. Pin all layers together.

Stitch around 1/4” from the edge, leaving 3” open at the bottom. Backstitch over the elastic several times to hold.

Clip the corners. Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening 1/4”. Stitch around the cozy close to the edge.

Bring the two ends of the cozy together as they’d be around a cup. Mark the spot the elastic loop reaches without stretching by sticking a pin through. Verify on the back that it isn’t poking through the sleeve. If it is, adjust accordingly so you don’t sew through the straw sleeve when attaching the button.

Mark the spot on the front of the cozy and sew the button there.

Slide the straw into the sleeve for transport.

This cozy is extra wide and longer than my usual, so it’s perfect for keeping your hands dry.

Slide it into your purse and you’re ready to go, with less waste!

Cold Coffee Cozy with Straw Holder from Crafty Staci

Reusable Shopping Bags with Storage Pouch

June 5, 2019 CraftyStaci

Do they still allow stores to use plastic shopping bags where you live? That’s currently a yes for me, but that’s about to change. I thought I’d get ahead of it a bit by making myself some reusable shopping bags.

Reusable Shopping Bag Tutorial from Crafty Staci

This post is sponsored by Fabrications, Inc. All opinions are my own. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

I’ve never used coated fabric before, but the feel of this red check I received from Fabrications, Inc. is so much nicer than I expected. It isn’t stiff, but has some body to it, so it was perfect for this style of bag. It’s made by coating cotton with acrylic and an eco-friendly “wipe clean” finish, and is entirely food safe. It was easy to sew, and even though I could have pressed it from the back side, I didn’t even turn my iron on for this project.

Buffalo Check Red coated fabric on Crafty Staci

I originally intended to make only the shopping bags, but after they were finished I realized I had the perfect amount of fabric left for a zippered bag I could carry them in. Half the battle for me if remembering to bring the bags with me, and that extra pouch is so cute, how could I forget?

To make these you’ll need:

1 yard coated fabric (36 x 60”)
1 10” zipper

For two shopping bags, cut:

four - 18 x 17” - bag A

two - 8 1/2 x 10 1/2” - outer pocket B

four - 3 1/2 x 30” - handles C

Pieces for shopping bags on Crafty Staci

For one zippered storage pouch, cut:

one - 19 x 12” - pouch D

one - 2 1/2 x 14” - handles E

two - 1 x 2 1/2” - zipper ends F

Pieces for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Since I squeezed almost every inch out of this yard of fabric, here’s my cutting layout so you know how it all fits.

Set aside the zipper and pieces (D-F) for the pouch.

For the assembly instructions, I’m going to show you how to make one of the bags. The second goes together exactly the same way. 😉 Unless otherwise noted, all seams are 1/4”.

Lay out the two A bag pieces with the edges even and the 18” side facing you. Measure 5” from the right corner on both the bottom and side edges.

Clipping corner off shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Cut diagonally through both layers between those two points. Repeat on the left corner. Set those pieces aside.

Clipping off second corner of shopping bag on Crafty Staci

If you’d prefer straight corners, simply don’t clip them off and proceed with the remaining instructions.

Fold the B outer pocket piece width wise, with right sides together. Clip together, don’t pin. In fact, you’ll want to use clips throughout this project, as pins will leave behind holes. Stitch both short sides.

Stitching sides of pocket for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Turn right side out. Use a seam roller, fingernail, or other non-heated method to flatten the seams. Topstitch 1” from the folded edge.

Topstitch pocket for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Lay out one bag piece A. Center the pocket at the bottom edge with the edges even and the pocket fold toward the top. If you find you need more than clips across the bottom to hold it in place for stitching, use a small piece of blue painter’s tape at the top.

Pocket clipped to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Stitch close to the right and left side of the pocket.

Pocket stitched to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Lay the remaining bag A right side down over the piece with the pocket. Stitch 1/4” from both sides and across the bottom, including the angled corners.

Both shopping bag layers clipped together on Crafty Staci

Zigzag stitch over the edge of the seam allowance. This fabric doesn’t unravel, but the extra stitching adds some strength to the seams to support the weight this bag will hold.

Zigzag edge on shopping bag from Crafty Staci

Fold the upper edge of the bag to the inside by 2 1/2”. Flatten the fold.

Top edge of shopping bag folded to inside on Crafty Staci

Stitch 1/4” from the raw edge on the inside.

Upper edge of shopping bag sewn on Crafty Staci

Turn the bag right side out.

Shopping bag turned right side out on Crafty Staci

Fold the short ends of the bag handle under 1/4”. Fold the entire handle lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch 1/4” from the long edge.

Stitching handles for shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Turn the handle right side out. Topstitch close to both long edges.

Repeat to make the second handle.

Topstitched shopping bag handles on Crafty Staci

Find the center of the upper edge of the bag. Clip one end of the handle 4” from the center with the short end even with the topstitching on the bag.

Handle clipped to top of shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Clip the other end 4” from the center on the other side. Make sure the handle has no twists in it.

Stitch down the sides of the strap where it lays on the bag, near the top edge of the bag, and near the end of the strap. Stitch an X in the middle of the rectangle. Repeat on the other side of the bag with the second handle.

Handle stitched to shopping bag on Crafty Staci

Grab the supplies for the storing pouch. Fold the short ends of the zipper ends F under 1/4”. Wrap over the bottom of the zipper with the folds near the stop.

Clipping on zipper ends for shopping bag carrying pouch on Crafty Staci

Stitch across through the zipper.

End sewn to zipper bottom on Crafty Staci

Repeat on the pull end.

Clip the zipper to one short side of the pouch D, with right sides together. The zipper end may extend past the edge - that doesn’t matter. Stitch 1/4” from the edge.

Zipper sewn to one pouch side on Crafty Staci

Turn the zipper right side up. Flatten the seam. Topstitch near the seam.

Repeat with the remaining zipper side on the opposite side of the pouch. Be careful not to catch the fabric underneath when topstitching the second side of the zipper.

Second side of zipper sewn in place on Crafty Staci

Fold the handle lengthwise, with right sides together. Stitch down the long edge. Turn right side out. Topstitch down both long sides.

Completed handle for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Turn the pouch with wrong sides out. Unzip the zipper at least 2/3 of the way. Make sure the zipper is at the top and match up the sides of the pouch. Fold the zipper ends to match up the edges.

Fold the handle in half and slide it inside the pouch. Match the ends of the handle to the edges of the pouch, about 1” from the top.

Stitch both sides of the pouch. Stitch again over the handle in the seam allowance to give it extra strength.

Sides sewn for storage pouch on Crafty Staci

Turn the pouch right side out.

Fold both bags into thirds one direction, then thirds in the other, and they should fit nicely side-up-side inside the pouch.

Shopping Bags inside Storage Pouch on Crafty Staci

My original plan was to have the bag fold into the outer pocket for storage, and it is possible, but too finicky for me to do all the time.

Shopping bag folded into its own pocket on Crafty Staci

However, that little pocket would be a great place to stick coupons, receipts, or small items.

Reusable Shopping Bag with Outside Pocket on Crafty Staci

It’s been a while since I’ve made a coffee cozy, and this fabric is perfect for it. Spill a little coffee? Just wipe it off!

Thanks to Fabrications, Inc., I’m all set for my next shopping trip!

Reusable Shopping Bags in Storage Pouch with Coffee Cozy on Crafty Staci

Mini Barn Star Quilt

March 13, 2019 CraftyStaci

Back in November, I told you about the wool applique class I took. I bought a black metal stand to hang it on, where it stayed through the holiday season. The problem is, it’s currently mid March, and it’s still sitting there.

I signed up for a block of the month that’s a similar design, so my thought was that I would finish each block and display it on the stand until the next was completed. Yeah, I’m pretty behind on those, so that’s not happening. This is January, February, and March, without a single stitch of embroidery on any of them.

I don’t want to put away the stand, because it’s cute, but I definitely needed something not so wintery to put on it. Luckily, I was hit with inspiration. I love barn quilts, and I even have a red barn I could put one on, but I’ve never followed through and made one. Now that we’ll be moving in a couple of years, I think it’s time to let go of the idea.

However, a mini barn quilt would be perfect for my stand! I decided to go with solid colors to represent what would be paint on an actual barn quilt, and a wood grain print for the background. I love how it turned out!

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this you’ll need:

Cotton fabric in light blue, dark blue, light green, dark green, light yellow, dark yellow, light red, and dark red
Cotton fabric in a wood grain print
thin batting
fabric for binding
ribbon or cord for hanging
quilt square stand (optional)

This block is made entirely of half square triangles. They will eventually end up 2 1/2” square, but we’re going to start with something a little larger and trim it later. My thanks to Jacquelynne Steves for the cheat sheet to determine the size I needed. Cut the following number of 3 1/8” squares from each fabric:

4 light blue

4 dark blue

4 light green

4 dark green

2 light yellow

2 dark yellow

2 light red

2 dark red

12 wood grain

Also cut a 12 1/2” square for the back and 12 1/2” from the batting.

Set aside 4 of the wood grain squares for the corners. We’re going to assemble the outer squares that include the wood grain pieces first. Lay out one wood grain square with the grain turned in the direction you’d like it to end up in your block. For me, that was with the boards running vertically.

Lay a light blue piece on top, with right sides together. Using a fabric marking pen, draw a diagonal line from the upper left to lower right corner. Pin the squares together.

Stitch 1/4” from the line on both sides. You can draw these lines on too, if you’d like.

Cut along the line between the stitching.

Open up into a square and press.

This made two pieces - the top row, second square from the left and bottom row, second square from the right.

Lay out another wood grain square, with a light blue one face down on top, but this time draw the line from the upper right to lower left corner. Stitch as before and cut along the line.

This set is opposite the first.

These will be the first square on the left in the fifth row, and the first square on the right in the second row.

Repeat this process to assemble the dark blue, light green, and dark green squares that include wood grain. I’d recommend laying the pieces out as you go, like a puzzle, so you make sure all of the squares are looking like they should.

Once that’s finished, you can start matching up colors. These are easier, because there’s no wood grain so no direction you have to keep track of. This is how the remaining squares pair up:

light blue - dark blue (2)

light red - dark green (1)

dark red - light green (1)

light green - dark yellow (1)

dark yellow - light red (1)

dark red - light yellow (1)

light yellow - dark green (1)

Mark, pin, and stitch these in the same way we made the ones that included wood.

Looks a little wonky, huh? We still need to trim them to size. It takes a little longer, but I was really glad took the extra time, because they came out so much nicer.

Using a ruler with a diagonal line to match to the seam, cut each square, including the four corners, to 2 1/2”.

See how much neater they look?

Stitch the squares together side by side into rows with a 1/4” seam. Press the seams. Just so you don’t think this all went smoothly, see that third square in on the second row? The one with the short threads sticking out of it? I had to take that one out and sew it back in TWICE because somehow I kept turning it around! 😕

Stitch the rows together and press the seams.

Trim the edges if needed, making sure to stay 1/4” away from the star tips. Trim the backing and batting to match the top.

Lay the backing out, right side down. Add the batting and top, right side up. Pin well. Quilt as desired. Since this is only for display, I just stitched around, close to the star. I was afraid any stitching on the star itself would take away from the painted barn star effect I was going for.

Bind the edges using your favorite method. This is mine. I cut the binding 2 1/8” wide, and stitched it to the back by hand.

I was a little worried about using the wood background, but I’m really happy with it. It emphasizes the barn idea.

I don’t think I’m going to want to take this down if I ever get my wool applique finished!

Mini Barn Star Quilt from craftystaci.com

Fold Up Business Card Display Stand

February 20, 2019 CraftyStaci

I finally made a thing that’s been in my idea file for YEARS. It’s so simple, I’m not sure what the hold up was. Luckily, it turned out just the way I imagined, because otherwise that would have been the saddest build-up ever.

I made this business card display stand with craft show vendors in mind. They have to set up a table, and take it all down at the end, so having a stand that you can fold up flat and throw in a bag is handy. However, they aren’t the only ones who could use this handy holder. Anyone who needs to carry and display cards, this is for you.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this business card holder/display stand you’ll need:

outside fabric, 5 x 9 3/4”
inside fabric, 5 x 9 3/4”
pocket fabric, 5 x 3”
fusible interfacing, 5 x 9 3/4” (two) - I used Pellon 808 Craft Fuse, which is heavy but still workable
Velcro, 5/8 x 4” (one loop side, two hook side) - I like the Soft and Flexible variety, especially when using longer strips like this

On a side note, if you’re worried about wasting that 4” of loop Velcro, make a second holder and reverse the hook and loop pieces (one hook, two loop) to even it up!

Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the outside and inside fabric pieces.

Lay out the outside fabric piece. Pin one hook Velcro strip 7/16” from the bottom edge, centered side to side. Sew in place.

Stitch on the second hook Velcro strip in the same manner, 3 3/16” from the bottom edge.

Lay out the inside fabric piece, right side up. Stitch the Velcro loop strip 7/16” from the upper edge, centered side to side.

Fold the pocket wrong sides together and press, so it measures 1 1/2 x 5”.

Lay out the inside fabric, right side up, with the Velcro near the top. Line up the raw edges of the pocket with the bottom edge.

Lay the outside fabric piece over the top, right side down, with the Velcro near the bottom. Pin the layers together.

Stitch a 1/4” seam around the edge, leaving 3” open on the side above the pocket. Clip the corners.

Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening.

Topstitch all the way around, close to the edge.

With the inside layer up, starting from the end with the Velcro, draw lines at the following distances from that end:

1”
3 3/4”
6 1/2”

I used a Frixion pen, which I highly recommend because you can iron the line away when you’re finished with it. Just be aware that it will sometimes leave a light-colored line. If you’re sewing over it you can’t really see it, but if you misplace a mark you’ll notice it.

Stitch along each pen line.

Fold at the stitch lines and attach the loop Velcro to the hook behind the pocket to use as a stand.

Standing Business Card Holder from Crafty Staci

To flatten it for travel, unhook the Velcro, fold the flap forward over the pocket and wrap around until the loop reaches the other hook strip.

If you happen to have vertical cards, like I do, just turn them upright while they’re in the stand.

Business Card Display Stand with vertical business cards from craftystaci.com

Make it to match your brand colors, and you’re all set to hand out your business cards anywhere you go!

Business Card Holder from craftystaci.com

If you’re a craft show vendor, check out my other tutorials and posts to help get you organized:

My Top Ten Favorite Projects

February 13, 2019 CraftyStaci

Yesterday was the 9th anniversary of my blog. There was no cake or balloons, but I like to acknowledge milestones. I’ve got one ending in a big fat zero coming up soon myself, but let’s talk about the blog instead.

Since next year is a decade, I’ll probably want to do something big, so I thought I’d keep this one a little more low key. To celebrate, I’d like to tell you about my favorite projects I’ve shared here at craftystaci.com.

To choose ten out of hundreds of projects was a little daunting. And if I chose next week, some of them would be different. But for today, these are the winners.

Robin Hood Hats

These hold a special place in my heart because I made them for my young son and his buddies so they could perform a song from Robin Hood: Men in Tights for the school talent show. They knocked it out of the park and I was honored I got to help..

Creamer Bottle Snowman

This guy made the list because he’s really what got me thinking about writing a blog in the first place. That deserves recognition.

Craft Show Vendor Apron

This apron made the list for a couple of reasons. At the time, it was probably the most complex pattern I had created myself, and I was proud of the way it turned out. It also launched a successful line in my Etsy shop that kept me busy for years and allowed me to provide a service for other makers that made me feel warm and fuzzy.

Reversible Coffee Cup Sleeve

This was where I learned that just because something seems simple, or others are out there making similar things, doesn’t mean I shouldn’t share my version. I almost didn’t post this, but it ended up being my first taste of a project going viral. I’ve literally made hundreds of them since, in addition to sharing an entire series of coffee cup sleeve patterns.

Passport Wallet

I made this wallet during Year 1. When I decided to make one from the pattern for my daughter’s trip to Italy last year, I didn’t change a thing, and just added a loop on the side. That kinda made me happy.

Microwave Homemade Caramels

Microwave Homemade Salted Caramels from craftystaci.com

I never intended to focus on recipes, although I like to throw one out there once in a while, but I shared this one on the second day my blog existed. That’s how much I love it.

Personalized Drinking Jar Wedding Gift Favors

Personalized Drinking Jar Wedding Favors from craftystaci.com

You’d never know it from the lone jar shown here, but I made 240 of these for my daughter and son-in-law’s wedding. It was a crazy project. What’s even crazier is that five years later, I have people who were there tell me they still have the jars and use them.

Mabel’s Mug Mat

I knew I wanted one from my mug mat series on this list, but choosing was hard. I think it just came down to the fact that this one has some sass.

Pineapple Hot Pad

Were you around for the hot pad series? I got so into that one, I ended up extending it for an extra six months after I meant to quit. I just loved how everything came together on this pineapple.

Leather Grommet Bag

This one is a favorite because I hadn’t sewn with leather before, and I had a ball trying to figure out how many things I could make from the remains from a shortened coat. I’ll tell you a secret - I still have a few pieces of this red leather left.

While those ten are my favorites, most of them aren’t the top ten most popular. Would you like to see those? Click here to check out my most recent newsletter for that list, and if you like what you see, click below to sign up to receive it every two weeks via email!

Striped Heart Mini Quilt

January 30, 2019 CraftyStaci

I have a spot in our dining room, near the door to the garage, that used to be reserved for hanging a calendar. That was back when the kids constantly had something going on, and having the calendar by the door was handy. These days, I use the pretty wrought iron hanger to hang a small, quilted wall hanging. With Valentine’s Day coming up, I couldn’t find one that felt right. I probably could have tried harder, but honestly, I was also in the mood to make something all heart-shaped. 😍

Striped Heart Mini Quilt from Crafty Staci #valentinequilt #heartquilt #heartplacemat

To make this you’ll need cotton fabric for the background, heart, and backing, and thin batting. Cut the fabric as follows (the numbers in parenthesis refer to the piece numbers in the chart below) :

background

8 pieces (1, 2, 13, 16, 17, 19, 20, 31) - 2 x 2”
4 pieces (4, 5, 22, 23) - 2 x 3 1/2”
4 pieces (7, 8, 25, 26) - 2 x 5”
2 pieces (10, 28) - 2 x 6 1/2”
2 pieces (12, 30) - 2 x 8”
2 pieces (15, 33) - 2 x 9 1/2”
2 pieces (34, 35) - 2 x 20”

heart

2 pieces (3, 21) - 2 x 3 1/2”
2 pieces (6, 24) - 2 x 6 1/2”
2 pieces (9, 27) - 2 x 9 1/2”
5 pieces (11, 14, 18, 29, 32) - 2 x 11”

backing

1 piece 19 x 22”

batting

1 piece 19 x 22”

binding

84”

I recommend laying the pieces out according to the chart before you start sewing anything, just to make sure it looks right. Remember, thanks to seams they won’t line up properly yet.

All the pieces will be sewn together in numerical order. Start by sewing piece 1 to piece 2. Press the seam toward the bottom. Press after each seam throughout the project.

Add piece 3.

Continue adding pieces in numerical order, according to the chart. Top after adding piece 12. That’s the beginning of section A.

Stitch piece 13 to 14.

Add that to the right hand side of section A.

Add piece 15 at the bottom.

Sew piece 16 to 17, then 17 to 18.

Add that to the right hand side of section A. Set that section aside.

Start section B by sewing together pieces 19 and 20.

Continue adding pieces in order, just as you did with section A, stopping after you add piece 30.

Stitch piece 31 to 32, then add that to the left hand side of section B.

Stitch piece 33 on at the bottom.

Stitch section A to section B, making sure to line up those seams near the top.

Add piece 34 at the top and piece 35 on the bottom. Press well.

Lay the backing right side down. Top with the batting, followed by the quilt top, right side up. Pin well. Quilt as desired. I just stitched near the seams, following the stripes.

Trim the edges. Bind using your favorite method. I made mine by folding a 2” strip in half and stitching it 1/4” from the edge on the top.

I wrapped that to the back and stitched in the ditch on the front. I have to say, this is the first time that’s worked well for me! By the way, this is my favorite tutorial for corners and sewing the ends together. I pull it up every time I’m making a quilt.

With a finished size of 16 1/2 by 19 1/2” this quilt is a great size for hanging on the wall, using as a table topper, or even as a placemat. All I know is, now I’m seeing hearts!

Striped Heart Mini Quilt on Crafty Staci #valentinequilt #valentinesewing #heartquilt

Quick Table Runner

January 9, 2019 CraftyStaci

One of these years I’ll have to give you a little tour of my Christmas decorations when they’re up. We go a little crazy. You wouldn’t know it from the outside, with our one strand of lights, but on the inside it’s Santa’s village. My husband pointed out that I’ll be able to get a bigger tree when we move to Montana because I’ll have taller ceilings, and I couldn’t be more excited.

Because it’s a winter wonderland from the day after Thanksgiving until New Year’s Day, everything looks very bare when it’s gone. I decided I needed a little color on my dining room table to spice things up. This quick table runner was the perfect solution.

You’ve probably seen this basic style of table runner before. It’s often called a “10 Minute Table Runner.” Uh, no. Maybe 20 - 30 minutes if you’ve already selected your fabric and don’t add any embellishments. Maybe. I suspect no one means you can literally make it in 10 minutes, but maybe it’s an exaggeration meant to indicate that it’s quick and easy. And that it is.

To make this you’ll need:

1/3 yard feature fabric (12” x width of fabric)
1/2 yard coordinating fabric (18” x width of fabric)
1/8 yard accent fabric (4 1/2” x width of fabric) or scraps

You don’t need any batting for this one. I was skeptical about that, but it’s a nice runner without it.

This is a great project for using a larger scale print that you don’t want to cut up. Keep in mind that if you’re going to use a directional print for the feature fabric that it will be upside down or sideways from all but one view. Also, I recommend avoiding stripes or plaids for the coordinating fabric. It would be very difficult to match up, and it’s very noticeable if it’s not.

Cut the 1/8 yard accent fabric into ten 3” squares.

Fold each square in half diagonally, with wrong sides together, and press. Fold in half diagonally again and press.

You should end up with triangles, typically called prairie points in quilting. If your accent fabric is directional, make sure to fold all of the squares so the pattern is going in the same direction. Set those aside.

Pin one long edge of the two remaining fabrics with right sides together. One piece will likely be longer than the other. We’ll trim that later. Stitch a 1/4” seam.

You’ll notice I didn’t trim any of the selvages at this point. Since I’ll be trimming both ends later, I didn’t bother. I just chose one end to match up. However, if you’re having trouble getting things to line up, or it just bugs you, go ahead and cut them off.

Pin the remaining long edges, right sides together, and stitch a 1/4” seam, creating a tube. One of your pieces is wider than the other, so the wider will bunch up during this step.

Turn the tube right side out. Adjust the sides so that the feature fabric is centered. The two coordinating borders should be about 1 1/2” wide each. You can measure if you like. I just eyeballed it. Press.

Trim both short ends of the runner to even them up and remove the selvages.

Fold the runner in half lengthwise with the feature fabric facing out. Stitch each short end with a 1/4” seam.

Press the seam open.

Turn the ends (not really right side out, but the same idea) so the seam is to the inside and it creates a point on each end. Press with the seam centered.

Slide the raw edge of each of the prairie points under the straight edge of the triangle by 1/4”. Make sure they are spaced evenly. Pin well.

Stitch close to the edge of both triangles.

You can also add a few extra touches of your own, like larger prairie points or tassels on the ends. Maybe a few buttons?

Quick Table Runner with Button Trim craftystaci.com

I pulled out some white ric rac to show you what that might look like, but I liked it so much I went ahead and sewed it on. It almost makes my teeth hurt it’s so cute!

The finished table runner should measure about 14 1/2 x 42”, depending on the width of your fabric. Perfect for the center of most tables.

Another thing I love about this table runner, and its lack of batting, is that it folds up really small to store. That means you can have one for every season!

Want to see more of my sewing tutorials? Click here!

Triaxal Weave/Striped Tote

May 30, 2018 CraftyStaci

Whether you call it a triaxal weave, mad weave or tumbling blocks, this pattern has a certain beauty to it, especially to those of us fond of geometric designs. I'm just glad I didn't give up when initially I couldn't figure out how to do it to save my life.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

I talked about this a bit when I shared my woven mini quilt last month. I was getting into fabric weaving, using the Wefty needle I'd bought. I made the quilt using a straight weave, but wanted to try out the more complicated triaxal. At first, it didn't go well. These grey strips are way too steep, for starters. Oh, and pretty much everything else is wrong too.

I threw that aside for a few months. When I got it back out, I found helpful tutorials from Sew Much Moore and The House that Lars Built and it started to come together. You know when you're looking at one of those magic eye things and suddenly you can see the hidden picture? Just like that.

Once I'd finished the thing, my first thought was "Now what am I going to do with this?" After you've put that much work into something, sticking it in a box somewhere is not an option.

Fortunately I needed a bag to take to my quilt guild meetings, and this would make the perfect size. The thing is, a bag needs two sides and I wasn't up for weaving another at that point, so I went a different route. My laziness paid off, because I love the mismatched patterns made from the same fabrics.

To make this you'll need:

14 x 17 1/2" woven panel
two 3 1/2 x 9" fabric for inner pockets (I was able to cut this from the leftovers from the striped piece)
two 3 x 27" fabric for straps
thirteen 2 x 19" in five fabrics (or 26 if you want to skip the woven side and make both striped)
two 14 x 17 1/2 fabric for lining
two 1 x 27" fusible fleece
two 14 x 17 1/2" fusible interfacing

Stitch the strips together side by side. Press the seams to one side.

Turn so the strips are horizontal and cut 6" off each side.

Turn the center piece around 180 degrees. You can either line the stripes up as shown here:

Or you can offset them by 1/2", as I did. Once you've decided, sew the three sections together and press the seams.

Trim the piece to 14 x 17 1/2". You should have enough leeway to do this either horizontally or vertically. I chose to cut mine off center.

Fuse the interfacing to the back of woven and striped pieces.

Fold one pocket with right sides together. Stitch, leaving 1 1/2" open. Clip corners, turn right side out and press. Repeat with second pocket. Pin 4" from the top and 5" from each side on one of the lining pieces. Stitch sides and bottom of each.

Pin the two lining pieces right sides together. Stitch sides and bottom, leaving 6" open at the bottom.

Do the same with the woven and striped pieces, but don't leave the opening. Don't turn right side out yet.

Fuse the fleece to the center of the 3 x 27" strap pieces, on the wrong side. Fold the strap in half, right sides together and stitch. Turn right side out and press with the seam centered. Top stitch down both sides. Repeat for second strap.

Pin the strap 4" from the bag seam on each side. The strap seam should be facing out.

Turn the lining right side out and stuff it into the bag over the straps. Line up the upper edges, pin and stitch.

Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Stitch the opening closed, either by hand or machine. Stuff the lining into the bag.

I made a design decision on the fly here and left the seam standing up, so some of the lining shows on the outside, rather than folding it completely inside.

Triaxal Weave Bag from craftystaci.com #freebagpattern #triaxalweave #madweave

Stitch near the top and bottom of the visible lining strip with the handles up so you're stitching over them.

Triaxal Weave Tote on craftystaci.com #triaxalweave #madweave #tumblingblocks

I made this bag before I left on vacation. I'm planning to share some of the details of that next week, but I have to show you this photo I took in Pompeii.

This is a tile floor, and if you look closely you'll see that the pattern is just like my bag! Some of those designs that seem so modern to us have been around for hundreds and sometimes thousands of years. I'm even happier now that I didn't give up!

Coupon, Gift Card and Loyalty Card Pouch

February 21, 2018 CraftyStaci

Like many people these days, I love my smartphone and I don't know what I'd do without it any more. Among other reasons, many of the places I shop have their own app, and if I want to take advantage of a current coupon or loyalty program all it takes is a quick scan.

But, there are still merchants out there that are either too small or just aren't on board yet, and they still use paper and cards. I'm not about to avoid a small business because I can't use my phone, so I seem to always have a few coupons, loyalty cards or gift cards floating around in my purse. By floating, I mean buried in the bottom where they aren't going to do anyone any good. This pouch solves that problem, and only takes up a little bit of space.

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

To make this pouch you'll need:

4 x 7" outer fabric - cut 2
4 x 7" lining fabric - cut 2
4 x 7" fusible midweight interfacing - cut 4
7 x 7" pocket divider fabric - cut 2 (I used a different fabric for each)
7 x 7" fusible midweight interfacing - cut 2
2 1/2 x 2 1/2" outer fabric - cut 1
6" zipper

Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of all fabric pieces.

Fold each of the two pocket dividers in half with wrong sides together. Press. Stitch across close to the fold. Set aside.

Lay the lining piece right side up. Lay the zipper on top, right side up, matching up the top edges. I make sure the pin heads are on the outside so I can remove them easily after the next step.

Add one of the outer pieces, right side down over the zipper. Pin through all layers, then remove the pins from the previous step.

Using a zipper foot, stitch 1/4" from the top edge through all layers. Press both the lining and outer piece away from the zipper.

With the lining and outer piece wrong sides together, top stitch close to the fold.

Repeat with the remaining lining and outer pieces and the other side of the zipper.

Unzip the zipper halfway. Open out one of the lining pieces so it's face up on its own. Lay the two pocket dividers on top, lining up the bottom edges. Fold the remaining lining down over the top. Line up the bottom edges and pin.

Fold the remaining lining down over the top. Line up the bottom edges and pin.

Fold the 2 1/2" square in half and press. Fold both edges into the center and press again. Stitch close to the double-fold edge.

Open out one side of the outside. Fold the loop in half and line up the ends with the outer edge, 1" from the zipper.

Fold the remaining outer piece over the top and pin, lining up edges.

Stitch around 1/4" from the outer edge, leaving 3" open at the bottom of the outside pieces.

Clip the corners and turn the bag right side out. Make sure the lining is pushed all the way down. Fold in the opening and stitch across near the bottom.

Add a cute zipper pull, just because.

With the dividers, you end up with three pockets inside.

Coupon Pouch from craftystaci.com #freesewingpattern #easysewingproject

That gives you one for coupons, one for gift cards and one for loyalty or punch cards. Or if you're me, one pocket for craft-related stuff, one for grocery and one for everything else.

This pouch keeps me organized, so not only is it easy to find everything, but I actually remember to go through it once in a while and throw away whatever has expired. I know, that's kind of a miracle.

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag

January 24, 2018 CraftyStaci

The fabric for this project was provided by Sewing Studio, where you can find fabric, notions, patterns - all the things you need for your next sewing project. But even better, they're offering a discount code for you! Just enter "Craftystaci" to receive a 15% discount on your entire order at www.sewingstudio.com!

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag with Adjustable Strap from CraftyStaci.com

This post contains affiliate links. For my full disclosure policy and point of view, click here.

As my tutorials often do, this one started out because I needed something. I have a tablet that I like to take with me when we travel, and sometimes when I just want to go to a coffee shop and watch a class.

I have a laptop bag, but it's way too big, and I don't like how the pockets are arranged. I want to be able to take a few things with me, without everything coming out with the tablet when I pull it out. Problem solved, and I'll get right to it, because this is a long one!

To make this bag you'll need:

this pattern, printed and taped together
Fabric for the outside of the bag (something medium weight - I used canvas)
Fabric to line the bag and make the card pocket (I used a very lightweight denim)
Fusible interfacing
Two 1 1/2" d-rings (preferably welded ends so they don't pull apart in use)
Two 1 1/2" snap hooks
One 1 1/2" flat strap slider
7" zipper (minimum - I like to go a couple of inches longer and cut off the excess)
3 inches 3/4" wide Velcro
Carabiner

Using the pattern, cut out two for the outside of the bag, two for the lining, two for the top flap, and four from the interfacing. I cut the front outer piece from the lining fabric since much of it is covered by the pockets and I wanted the print for that with contrast between the two.

After you've done that, cut off the top of the pattern at the horizontal line. Keep that top part but set it aside - you'll need it later.

Fold the fabric in half, line up the top edge of the pattern with the fold, and cut out the front pocket.

You'll also need to cut the following pieces:

7 1/2 x 12" for the inside of the zipper pocket
4 1/2 x 19 1/4" for the card pocket (something fairly lightweight - my lining fabric worked well)
1 1/4 x 24" for the binding for the card pocket
3" x 48" for the strap (piece two pieces together as needed to get length)
3 x 3 1/2" for the d-ring ends
2 x 3" for the key carabiner loop

Because there are several pieces to this and I didn't want to get them confused, I wrote each on a scrap of paper and pinned it on the piece.

The seams on this are 1/4” unless specifically indicated otherwise.

Apply the fusible interfacing to both outer bag pieces and both flap pieces. Fold the front pocket in half with wrong sides together and press. Set aside.

We'll start the assembly by installing the zippered pocket on the outer front of the bag. Grab that top bit of the pattern you cut off earlier. Cut out the section marked "Zipper." Flip the front outer piece over. Flip the pattern piece over as well and pin it in place with the upper edges matched up. Trace inside the rectangle with a pen or pencil. Remove the pattern.

Poke a pin into each corner. Flip the piece over. Using the pins as a guide, place the inside pocket piece face down with the upper edge and both sides 1/2" outside of the rectangle.

Pin in place. Flip over and pin at the rectangle on the back. Remove all pins from the front. Stitch along the drawn line.

Using sharp scissors, carefully snip through both layers in the center of the rectangle. Continue cutting to 3/8" from the end. From that point, snip to each corner, creating a Y shape. Cut as close to the corner as you can without clipping any stitches. Repeat on the other end of the rectangle.

Flip over and push the entire pocket through the opening.

Pull all the edges through until the pocket lies flat against the back. Press well.

Place the zipper face up behind the opening. Pin well. Stitch around close to the edge using a zipper foot.

Fold the pocket up with right sides together so the edges are even. Pin on the side facing the bag. Stitch around the edge, still using the zipper foot, from the side that faces the bag. Fold the bag back out of the way as you go. If the zipper pull gets in the way as you approach it, stop with your needle down, lift the presser foot, unzip the zipper a few inches, lower the presser foot and continue.

Clip off the excess zipper. Pin the pocket up near the zipper so it doesn't get sewn into any of the following steps.

Pin the lower pocket to the outer front with the lower edges even. It should still be folded in half with wrong sides together, just as it was when you cut it out. Stitch along the vertical lines shown on the pattern.

To prep card pocket, mark the fold lines as shown on this guide (the two pages overlap at the 19.25" marking). Press as indicated. A little spray starch would help keep the folds crisp.

Fold up the pockets. You may want to pin down the center. Fold the card pocket binding in half, right sides together, and press. Fold both edges into the middle and press again. Open out one edge and line it up with the edge of the card pocket, starting at the bottom left and continuing around to the bottom right. Stitch, using this trick for the corners. Trim off the excess.

Wrap the binding over the edge to the back. Press. Stitch across the top only, near the seam. Pin over the top of the large pocket on the left of the bag. The stitching on the right should go over the top of the existing stitching, so place the pocket accordingly. Make sure the bottom edges are even, and trim off the curve to match. Stitch down both sides.

I originally planned to have this bag close with a magnetic snap, but realized that might not be the best for my electronics, so I went with Velcro instead.

Find the center of the front. Cut the hook side of the Velcro down to 2". Pin it vertically at the center of the front with the bottom 1 1/2" from the bottom of the bag. Stitch in place. Do the same with the 3" hoop side on the inner flap piece. The varying sizes of the two Velcro sides gives it a little wiggly room so it will still close when full.

Unpin the zipper pocket on the back. Lay the outer back piece right side down over the front. Stitch the sides and bottom. Do the same with the two flap pieces. Sew the lining pieces in the same manor, but leave 5" open in the middle of the bottom.

Turn the flap right side out. Press. Topstitch near the seam. Turn the lining right side out.

Fold the d-ring ends the long way, right sides together. Stitch down the side. Turn and press with the seam in the center. Topstitch down both sides.

Fold the key loop wrong sides together. Press. Turn the edges into the center and press again. Stitch down both sides.

Fold the flap up over so it covers the Velcro and pin. A safety pin would be best here.

Slide the flap into the bag with with back and outer flap together. Pin in place with the edges at the seams. Make sure the pin heads are to the outside because we're adding more layers to this and want to be able to remove the pins as we sew. You can baste each layer instead, but personally I hate having to remove all that stitching later.

Slide the d-ring onto the d-ring end and fold in half with the seam inside. Stitch across near the ring. Unpin the flap near the seam and center the d-ring over the seam. Put the flap back on top and pin.

Turn the lining right side out. Slide it into the bag and pin, matching the seams. Fold the key carabiner loop in half and pin it with the ends side-by-side between the bag and lining, 2" from the left seam on the front.

Stitch around the top edge through all the layers. Because there's a lot riding on that seam, I zigzagged the seam allowance. At the very least, I'd consider stitching it a second time.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining. Remove the pin from the flap.

Stitch the opening in the lining closed. I just stitched over it with my machine, but you could do it by hand if you prefer a cleaner look. Push the lining into the bag. Press the seam. Stitch around the edge and across the back close to that seam, pressing the key loop down toward the bag as you go over it. Stitch across that loop again 1/4" from the seam. Clip on the carabiner.

We're almost there! To make the strap, fold both short ends under 1/4" and press. Fold the strap right sides together, matching the long edge, and stitch. Turn the tube right side out and press with the seam at the center. Stitch near both long edges.

Slide one end (closer to the seam where you pieced your fabric together) over the end of the snap hook and fold over 1 1/4". Stitch across near the hook end, near the strap end, and a third time right between the two.

Slide the strap slider over the other end, with the bar under the strap, and up a few inches. Slip the remaining hook onto the strap. Push the strap end under the slider bar from the side furthest from the hook.

Pull until the strap overlaps 1 1/4". Stitch across near the strap end, near the slider and midway in between.

Your strap is finished, and once you attach it, so is your bag!

Everything on the list of what I wanted this bag to hold has a spot.

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag - Everything it will hold

And none of it will come spilling out when I pull out my tablet. Did you notice the matching key fob wristlet clipped to the carabiner over there?

I also love that the strap can adjust from a shoulder bag to cross-body.

Tablet Mini Messenger Bag with Adjustable Strap

Once again, my thanks to Sewing Studio for sponsoring this post!

Strawberry Pincushion

March 8, 2017 CraftyStaci

If you happen to follow me on Instagram, you may have spotted this little guy last week.

I thought about calling this one "Boring Strawberry Pincushion" but I was afraid you might get the wrong idea. You see, I was invited by my friends at Cut Out and Keep to create a project to represent my little hometown of Boring, Oregon.

While that sounded easy at first, it isn't exactly a metropolis. We have a teeny, tiny downtown area which consists of a small handful of businesses and a grange hall. Beyond that, Boring is mostly trees and farmland.

It was the land that finally inspired me. You've heard me talk about how great our strawberries are. Well, lots of those are grown in my little town, so what better to represent us?

You can also find the pattern and instructions for this pincushion at Cut Out and Keep. It isn't actual size when it comes to even the biggest strawberries. The whole thing measures about 4 1/2" tall when it's stood on end. I wanted to make sure ALL of my pins would fit.

To make this you’ll need:

red fabric
muslin fabric
green fabric
green embroidery thread
pincushion stuffing (I used about 2 cups of ground walnuts)
this pattern

Cut two strawberries from red fabric, two strawberries from muslin and four leaves from green fabric.

Pin the two red strawberries with right sides together. Stitch 1/4" from the edge, leaving the curved top edge open. Turn right side out.

Repeat with the muslin strawberries.

Pin two leaves right sides together. Stitch, leaving about 1 1/2" open on one side. Clip the seams at the tips. Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening. Stitch all the way around the outside, close to the edge.

Repeat with remaining two leaves. Set aside.

Using doubled thread and a needle, hand stitch with a medium stitch length 1/2" from the top edge of the muslin strawberry. Don't knot or remove needle.

Set the strawberry inside a small pot or cup to hold it upright. Fill with the ground walnut shells. You want it to be full, but you need to be able to close the top, so adjust the amount of shells accordingly.

Pull the thread to draw the top closed, turning the upper edge to the inside as much as possible. Add a few stitches around the top to hold, then knot thread and clip.

Stitch in the same way 1/2" from the top of the red strawberry. Slide the muslin strawberry inside.

Pull the thread to close and stitch as you did with the muslin.

Lay the two leaves together in an X shape. Pin and lightly mark the center. Knot one end of a embroidery thread. Stitch through the center from the bottom, leaving a 2 1/2" long loop on top. Knot remaining end under the leaves. Tie a knot in the loop near the leaves.

Using a second piece of embroidery thread, stitch the top to the strawberry through all the layers.

In addition to the stitches you see here, I added a small stitch underneath each leaf.

Add your pins and it's ready to use!

I used my new favorite pincushion stuffing, ground walnut shells, for this one as well. The weight, and the fact that it lays on its side giving me a nice angled surface to stick pins into, makes it the perfect sewing machine companion. Not so boring after all, is it?

Sewing Machine Hot Pad

July 20, 2016 CraftyStaci

Well folks, this is it. After a year and a half, I’m bringing the Hot Pad of the Month series to a close. It all started with some random doodling, trying to come up with a hot pad shaped like a teacup, and is ending with a collection of 18 hot pad patterns, all based on that same original shape. I’m going to miss sitting down with my sketches every month, half the time going off book anyway, but I think it’s time to move on.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this series as much as I have! There’s a lot of pressure when you’re coming to a full stop on a series this long. I wanted to make sure to end with something meaningful, and for all of us who sew, that machine that helps makes it happen is near and dear. It’s no coincidence that this is one of my favorites, and I could think of no better goodbye.

To make this hot pad, you’ll need:

this pattern (be sure to print at 100%, borderless – it goes edge to edge of the paper. Also be aware it’s two pages)
three fabrics for the sewing machine
one fabric for the background
one fabric for the thread spool
one fabric for back
InsulBright (cut to pattern shape)
thin cotton batting (cut to pattern shape)
fusible interfacing (cut to pattern shape)
1 – 1 1/2” button
red craft thread
silver and/or grey craft thread

This pattern uses foundation paper piecing. Rather than trying to explain that here, I’m going to refer you to this blog post where I show some basics and give you a couple of places to visit to learn more about the technique. Beware, if you haven’t trying it before know that it’s pretty easy to become addicted.

Cut pieces for each sewing machine section. I’m generous with the size of mine. It helps me prevent mistakes, so in the end maybe not as much extra waste as it appears.

Starting with piece 1 and progressing in numerical order, stitch together the lower sewing machine section. The line on piece 3 is not a seam, but rather the embroidery line for the machine needle. The pattern prints backward so your machine will be correct when it’s finished. Leave the paper attached.

Complete the upper section 10, starting with A.

Remove the paper. Add it to the lower portion of the machine as piece 10.

Flip over and cut around outer edge of pattern.

Carefully remove the paper.

Apply the fusible interfacing to the back. This is just to add stability while you embroider.

Trace the embroidery lines onto the machine with removable or very fine pen. It’s easiest just to print a second copy of the pattern for this. The thread lines are red and the needle is blue. I added my logo, but you can use your favorite machine name or any other word of your choice, or leave it blank.

Embroider the lines using a basic backstitch. Because my silver thread was fine, I added a second line next to the first to thicken the needle up a bit.

Layer the batting, InsulBright, front with the right side up and back with the right side down. Pin. Stitch, leaving 3” open at the bottom. Clip the corners.

Turn right side out. Press, turning in the opening. Topstitch near the edge.

Sew the button on by hand.

I have to show you the back, only because I love this fabric so much.

I’m not sure I can bring myself to actually set anything on this, so I made some four-patch coasters to go with it. Check back with me next week and I’ll show you how I made those with faux binding.

I want these in all the colors.

I feel pretty good about stopping here. What was I going to do after this?

I would LOVE to share your version of these hot pads! If you’ve made any of the 18 and would be willing to let me show your photo, please either email me at [email protected] or contact me on Facebook by July 30th. I’ll post the results in early August. Don’t worry if it isn’t perfect (mine are certainly not!) and no one is going to judge your photography skills. We just want to see what you’ve made! <3

Thank you so much for playing along!

Strawberry Hot Pad

May 11, 2016 CraftyStaci

When they’re in season, I can’t leave them alone. The summer I was pregnant with my daughter I threw back so many I warned my husband that she might be born bright red and covered in seeds. Even though I ate my substantially pregnant weight in them it didn’t diminish my love for those sweet little berries. I might not be able to start eating them quite yet this year, but I think this cute hot pad will help me get through until I can.

If you’ve been following along during this series, you know these have varied in difficulty and skill level. This one is definitely one of the easiest, which is perfect for the crazy busyness that is May.

To make this hot pad you’ll need:

this pattern
2 caps cut from green fabric (flip pattern for second)
2 strawberries from red fabric
1 strawberry from fusible interfacing
1 strawberry from thin batting
1 strawberry from InsulBright
yellow craft thread
green craft thread

Mark the dots on the strawberry as shown on the pattern using a chalk pencil.

Apply the interfacing to the back. Layer the InsulBright, batting, front strawberry (right side up) and back strawberry (right side down). Pin layers together and stitch around, leaving 3” open at the bottom.

Turn right side out through opening. Press, turning in opening. Topstitch all the way around, close to the edge.

Using yellow craft thread, push needle down through all the layers just to the right of a dot. Push it back up on the left.

Tie the two strands in a tight knot and clip the threads about 1/4” long.

Repeat at for all the dots.

I used the tip of my needle to unravel and fluff the ends. I was going for an old-fashioned tied quilt look, but if you want something a little cleaner looking you could always tie the knots on the back. The front would look like this.

Pin the two caps right sides together. Stitch, leaving 2” open at the top.

Clip all of the corners. Turn right side out and press, turning in the opening.

I hand stitched around the edge using green craft thread, but you could topstitch it with a machine if you prefer. Leave the top edge unstitched.

Align the top edge of the cap with the top of the strawberry. Stitch across the top using your preferred method.

I can’t decide if this makes me feel better I can’t get Oregon strawberries yet, or just makes me want them more. Either way, it’s going to look pretty good with a piece of cake on top of it later!

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